As
I arrived in Lisbon on the shores of the Tagus River, I was mesmerized by the
city rising gracefully and serenely against rugged surroundings, shaped by the
presence of seven hills. As I walked on the pavements, with stone mosaics in
patterns of black and white I was instantly in love with the city.
The
two beautiful structures of The Discoveries Monument and Belem Tower are
located right next to the Tagus River and at Discoveries Monument not only was
I treated to an amazing 360 degree view of the city and the surrounding area, I
also learnt the history of the Portugal Capital all in a single stop. At the
tip of the monument there is a statue of Henry the Navigator looking out on the
Tagus River. Flanked on either side of him are the statues of Ferdinand
Magellan and Vasco da Gama. Later I took an elevator up to the top of the
Monument with a few stairs to get to the roof. The great mosaic map in front of
the Monument is huge! Belem Tower used as a fortress in olden times was no less
spectacular at a perfect location to fend off any enemy. As for me I was
awe-struck by the Renaissance style architecture. I then walked across to the
monastery on foot. The building itself is stunning and uses the Gothic style in
a unique way. Inside, I saw the tomb of the explorer who first discovered
India, Vasco de Gama!
CASA PASTIES DE BELEM
Foodie
that I am, I had to make a stop at the No 1 rated egg tart place in town, in
spite of many bakeries mind you in Portugal who have developed their own, local
interpretation of this kind of tart. History has it that a little before the
18th century, Catholic Monks at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos of Belem, created
this creamy dessert. As I stood in the serpentine queue outside I was happy to
discover that the service was swift, and I moved along the line very quickly.
Greedily we ordered 4 tarts each and made ourselves comfortable on the table.
They were decadent to the core with a warm (just out of the oven), light crispy
pastry shell enclosing vanilla scented mouthful of custard which was luscious
and one can choose to sprinkle it with cinnamon and powdered sugar. I have a
huge appetite, but couldn’t finish more than three and trust me they are hands
down the best custard tarts one can ever get. Definitely worth the wait…!
FEIRA DE LADRA
By
now I was quite exhausted with walking and my calves ached. To my joy I found
these quaint yellow trams which take you along most routes, it wasn’t just
historical but exciting as well! So I took No 28 and as I headed towards the
Campo de Santa Clara, in the funky Lisbon suburb of Moorish –influenced Alfama
district, I could see white spires of Igreja de Sao Vincente de Foran monastery
and the white dome of the National Pantheon, the Church of Santa Engracia.
Nestled happily between these two iconic Lisbon monuments, I found the Largest
and the oldest flea market (in existence since the 13th century), Feira da
Ladra which literally translates into ‘the thieves market’ and is a great place
to see the quirks of the city unleashed. Tourists and locals alike flock here
every Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Tiles, ceramic works of art, candle
sticks, carvings from former Portuguese colonies in Africa, white lace from
Tunisia, African masks, Handmade toys from Porto, clothes, shoes etc…you name
it and they are all here at a bargain price. What caught my fancy were the
painted roosters, symbol of good luck to the Portuguese and also make for
excellent souvenirs. Needless to add, I bought a big back one home which now
adorns my living room. By the way, before you ask…let me confirm…thieves out
here are not welcome!
It
was impossible not to want to listen to Fado, the local songs of the
Portuguese. There were special restaurants termed Fado houses all around that
played this, include a Folk dance performance with dinner in just 50 Euros at Alfama
and are known to be the most original. After our meal was served (read large
portions of delicious seafood that characterizes Lisboan cuisine), the lights
were dimmed, there was silence and four men softly began playing their Fado
guitars which were beautiful, round-bodied string instruments. A man from the
audience stood up and began singing a slow, emotional tune. Other singers in
the audience took their turns, performing about three songs each. Derived from
the Portuguese word for ‘fate’, this urban folk music is both hauntingly
beautiful and authentically rooted in the real world. I found it quite like an
Opera. I may not put on Fado music when I go back home or in my car, but
sitting there in that location, with those fantastic fadistas was a great
experience at the Parreirinha de Alfama. I absolutely enjoyed my extra-large
glass of Port and the rhythm of the night ….what a great way to end my trip at
this enchanted land only regret is that I could not take picture owing to the
low light!
FAST
FACTS
Best Way to
Reach- Emirates has a direct flight
to Lisbon via Dubai. It is the cheapest and the quickest way to reach from
India. A good idea is also to stop at Dubai enroute to make the most of your
trip. Fares may vary; check on www.emirates.com
while making a booking.
Visa &
Currency- Indians require a Schengen
Visa to enter Portugal and the currency used is the Euro. 1 Euro is equal to
approximately 65 INR
