The
capital of Nepal in the heart of a mountainous and snow-capped country, famed
for its ancestry, magic and mysticism.
CHARMING KATHMANDU
Weaving
down the road between speeding cars and beeping motorbikes as you squeeze
through the narrow streets, you will be greeted by keen street hawkers and the
humming throng of people on every nook and corner, while your senses go into
overdrive and the dust gathers pace around you… don’t be too quick to give up
on Kathmandu – you will grow into this magical mayhem as you spend a few days
uncovering the city’s charms. There’s more to it than meets the intimidated
eye, and a whole adventure awaits you beyond the backpacking area of Thamel.
DAY 1
7: 30 AM: BREAKFAST AT THE
COFFEE SHOP
You
will need a hearty breakfast before you start your day for sure. Tucked away
outside the touristy track, this delectable coffee shop at Hotel Annapurna is
none too traditional in its décor and has a very upbeat contemporary feel to
it. The place aims to attract the well-travelled and those looking for variety,
set in elegantly cosy surroundings; it offers tasty treats with distinction.
Eggs remain breakfast mainstays; a cappuccino bar churns out special coffee.
You can even ask for a special Nepali breakfast if you wish to go a la carte.
8:45 AM: SWAYAMBHU MAHA CHAITYA
Arriving
at the temple I saw quite a few monkeys playing around, souvenir vendors, snack
wagons, and wide stairs (read 367 steps) that went straight up seemingly to
heaven. As you climb the guide explains that this monastery is about 2,500
years old. One does get breathless on the way, but you can stop for a
refreshment or rest. When you reach the top you are rewarded with stunning bird’s
eye view of Kathmandu below and a whole village of old buildings, temples, holy
stupas, and souvenir shops at the top. Housing Buddhist and Hindu relics,
typically the ashes of deceased, this temple is used as a place of meditation.
Souvenir vendors have stalls side by side all around the village. A lot of them
have the usual tourist items, but several had things I actually considered
purchasing like the prayer wheels and well-done acrylic paintings of the
Himalayas. I explored around the whole monastery taking in the wafts of
incense, hypnotic chants of prayers and surreal sounds of ringing bells for
about an hour before heading back down. A good is to stop over for some tea and
momo’s before you head to the next stop.
11: 30 AM: HANUMAN DHOKA DURBAR
SQUARE
This
holds the structure that gave the city its name; Durbar Square, has been alive
and in use by locals for over a thousand years. Entering the square, right in
front is a huge pagoda style temple sitting on top of a series of
large stone steps. All around the temple people sit on these steps watching the
fruit sellers, singers, touts and tourists going about their business. Given
the number of tourists in the square it comes as no surprise that there were
people trying to sell little trinkets everywhere. You can also
witness a living goddess here who is a pre-pubescent girl considered to be the
earthly manifestation of divine female energy, and an incarnation of the
goddess known as Taleju, the Nepalese name for Durga. There are specific
timings she comes out, so make sure you visit the square around that time. The
kneeling figure of Hanuman, sits on a tall stone pedestal. To the right is the
golden main door of the HD Palace, guarded by a pair of stone lions. This
museum is worth exploring, unfortunately, no photos are allowed while inside.
6:00 PM: THAMEL
Thamel
has been referred to as the ‘ghetto’ by some; that said most low-budget
travellers consider it a tourist haven. The narrow streets are choked with
rickshaws, taxis, motorbikes and humanity. All the shopping alleys with countless
shops selling the famous local Pashmina, Yak, Jacquard and Cashmere shawls, are
interlinked and I could never guess what is coming out at the next turn. Little
temples and stupas are well hidden too at the back streets. It is more of a
backpacker area wall to wall with cafes, restaurants, pubs, travel agents,
foreign money exchange booths and budget hotels with tons of camping and
mountaineering gear shops including pirated North Face products. A good
idea is to end your day with a local meal at one of the cafes out here.
DAY 2
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9: 00 AM: BOUDHANATH STUPA
As
I stepped in, I saw throngs of pilgrims walking around the stupa in a clockwise
direction. Apart from its sheer size and magnificence, this vast stupa is the
epicentre of so much devotion - one can't help but be overwhelmed by it I too
got swept up with the crowds and joined them in this religious procession of
some sort. Some locals come here to hang out as well. I settled for Breakfast
at the Roadhouse Cafe and enjoyed the Stupa from a higher vantage point.
11: 30 AM: BHAKTAPUR
The
town itself is an old imperial city full of interesting sights, and Durbar
Square is situated just outside the town (Nepal has 3 Durbar Squares, the other
two being in Kathmandu and Patan). Many buildings out here
date from the 12-15th century. Carved wood lattices and struts under the roofs are
very intricate. One can get into the royal palace, through an ornate golden
gate, which houses beautiful wood windows. The big royal bath in the back,
where two cobra shaped statues stand is stunning. A Hindu temple inside
the palace which is gorgeous is only open to Hindus. Back at the square, you
can walk around and look at more temples and even shop for curios.
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1: 30 PM: LUNCH AT ARNIKO
Dining
at the Annapurna Hotel’s Chinese restaurant is a wonderful, wholistic
experience not to be missed. First the Chinese, soup lovers, don’t miss the
Traditional hot and sour chicken soup with bamboo shoots, a wholesome and tangy
delight. The Cigar roll with a yak cheese filling and the Dim Sums here are a
must try, they are a good representation of the quality that the kitchen
upkeeps and you would love the Nepalese twist in the taste. Other
recommendations including ‘Stir –fry greens’, ‘spicy pork’, ‘crispy duck with
orange sauce’ etc. For a typical Oriental refreshing sweet ending go for the
‘Date rolls with ice-cream’, decadent to the core!
3:00 PM: SHOPPING ON DURBAR
MARG
Just
outside Hotel Annapurna is Kathmandu’s High street, aka Durbar Marg. Combining
glamour with style and elegance, the place practically dignifies an entire
world of high fashion. If you have the money and you don’t mind spending, this
area is for you. From Zara to some spectacular local collection, this street
features the extreme definition of haute couture.
4:30 PM: PATAN
Situated
on a plateau across the Bagmati River Patan is eight kilometres south of
Central Kathmandu, it is also known as Lalitpur aka the city of fine arts. Designated
UNESCO World Heritage Site it is indeed rich in very old temples, shrines,
pagodas and stupas. It is perhaps the most picturesque collection of
buildings that have been set up in such a small area. This lovely little city
with its well preserved glorious heritage and the history of finest
craftsmanship is a must visit.
8: 00 PM: GO LOCAL AT BHUMI
If
you want to experience tranquillity, relaxation and consume local delights
amidst a quaint courtyard ‘Bhumi’ is the place to have your last meal in the
city! The Nepali gastronomy is characterized by its variety; as a cuisine Newari
which is on offer here is designed to be shared and therefore, is very much
conducive with family style service. With lungs, bone marrow as well as
great sekuwa, and chwoela on offer, Bhumi goes the whole buff. The momo’s are
snack size, and the presentation is great. Do try ‘Kathmandu blues’, their
signature drink and yes for the less carnivorous, there is plenty on offer too
like the Bara and Chatamari.
FAST FACTS
·
The discovery of
a life size statue of King Java Verma in 1992 at the Maligaon in Kathmandu,
with an inscription dated 185, is the earliest recorded evidence about Nepal’s
history.
·
Nepal’s
population represents more than a hundred ethnic groups. Each Nepalese ethnic
group carries its own identity and cultural heritage.
·
Hinduism is the
main religion of Nepalese people. The trinity of Hinduism- Brahma, Vishnu and
Shiva- and the pantheon of numerous other gods and goddesses are devotedly
worshipped in Nepal.
·
To the Hindus,
the most famous and venerated is the temple of Lord Pashupatinath, situated on
the banks of the Bagmati.
·
The Kathmandu
Valley is a treasure trove of Nepalese culture, and an important side of that
culture is its architectural heritage.
·
The Durbar Square
of Kathmandu is located in the old city and has heritage buildings representing
four kingdoms (Kantipur, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, and Kirtipur), built over
centuries, the earliest being the Licchavi dynasty.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
You
can visit the Nepal Tourism Board which helps plan itineraries for the
travellers at no cost.
P.O.
Box: 11018, Bhrikutimandap
Kathmandu,
Nepal
Tel: +977 -4256909
MUST SEE/MUST DO
Swayambhu Temple
BodhNath Temple
Pashupatinath Temple
Durbar Square
Thamel
Bhaktapur
A meal at Hotel Annapurna on Durbar Marg
Patan
Chill out at Garden of Dreams
Visit the Casino Royale
Private day hiking
Eat Thakali cuisine
Try the local momo’s
Eat Newari Cuisine
RETREAT
Pokhara is the
country’s second city and is about a 25 minute flight or a 4 and a half hours
drive from Kathmandu nestled amidst natural beauty. You can either just
chill out there by staying at The Fish Tail lodge the best resort in the city where
on a clear day you can get a good view of the towering Himalayan ranges or use
it as a base to the incredible trekking routes in the central Annapurna region
of the country.
SPICEJET FLIES TO KATHMANDU FROM
VARIOUS PORTS IN INDIA
published in spiceroute
