MASQUE TRAVELS TO THE CAPITAL THIS DECEMBER

Rhododendron & Begonia Sorbet

I bump into him at Tian a few years ago, where Chef Vikramjit Roy introduces me to him saying, ‘This guy is a genius’ and we all sit down at the alfresco area post dinner (I was staying at the Maurya so was in no hurry to rush back). He talks about the chefs he looks up to; about his growing up at a farm in Jammu where his weekends would go in spending his time in the fields. He was born in Kashmir and originally wanted to become a Commercial Pilot. He was young, and gained experience in several places including a stint at Alinea, French laundry and Le Bernardin followed by a tour of some of Europe’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Sadhu thinks his hitting the stride may be rooted in the fact that ‘It wasn’t until my tenure under Rene Redzepi at Noma that I learnt how to cook from the region and harnessing the soil’.

A lot of Prateek’s memories are sensory. He would visit his Aunts farm every Sunday. Naturally curious and always driven, he could be found in the Farm kitchen by his 10th birthday and over the coming years spent most of his free time there, learning the basics with his Mom and Aunt.

Prateek’s step into Masque came, he says, as a result of disillusionment with cooking after he returned to his homeland as he found it hard to source ingredients in India that were as good as those in New York, and he also felt that the dishes he was putting together were simply copies of those from the restaurants he worked at his stint as the Sous Chef of Le Cirque in Bangalore.

Smoked Potatoes, Butternut Squash

A tour of India taught him about its possibilities. Sadhu learnt India being a diverse country has different terrain and topography. Soon it became an ambition, this expedition for new ingredients and flavours. When a local forager in Ladakh made him experience Sea buckthorn, Sadhu saw the runway before him. ‘For me India defines local produce, be in chocolate from Pondicherry or sea buckthorn from Ladakh. It can be any ingredient grown in that particular season. Seasonality is what we are serious about here at Masque’.

Buckwheat, Salted Caramel 

I have dined at Masque thrice and each time has been a great experience. I still remember the tomato course on their first tasting menu wherein they focus on delivering the taste of a naturally grown tomato, (which comes from their flagship farm from pune) onto the plate with few complimenting flavours.

Prateek is restless, a good sign, he does various collaboration meals at Masque in Mumbai and also travels across the world where he showcases his food. The last one in Mumbai was with Garima Arora of Gaa (I have written about it in a previous post). And this time round, Masque travels to the capital….yes in Saadi Dilli; showcasing his skill for reaching just yonder the possible: here’s this Indian guy showing us things we may have never seen before – things from India.

FAST FACTS

WHERE? Masque will host a pop up at The Lodhi in Delhi on 1 Dec, 2 Dec, where the people of Delhi can sample what really is the buzz about Masque. Where seasonal produce and regional harvests will decide the menu and not cuisines and their sub-genres. Where fine-dining is not a lifestyle, but a way of life.

Heirloom Tomato

WHEN? 

1st December - Dinner, INR 8500+taxes

2nd Lunch & Dinner, INR 8500+taxes. 

FOR BOOKINGS: +91 22 2499 1010 / +91  9819069222 or email at bookings@masquerestaurant.com

THE GAA MASQUE COLLABORATION MEAL IN MUMBAI

Prateek Sadhu & Garima Arora

Prateek Sadhu’s Masque is no stranger to collaboration meals. His collaboration with Mathew Orlando, head chef of Amass was a big hit and this one with Gaa was sold out within a month.On the Occasion of its first anniversary Masque celebrated over a collaboration meal with Chef Garima Arora of Gaa, Bangkok!

The menu begins with the first course in the Masque kitchen...Garima Arora explains how to eat this tender and delicious corn with the gorgeous corn custardy dip

Chef Prateek Sadhu takes the very best from the fertile land of India. Simplicity made elegant; the quintessence of Masque cuisine!! on the occasion of Masque's first birthday chef collaborated with Garima Arora of Gaa Bangkok and both focused their talents on producing light and delicious dishes, using Avant -garde techniques to revisit Indian Ingredients heritage! The menu is sixteen courses, profoundly showcasing Indian ingredients.

Barramundi/Milk Skin

Garima’s winner of a dish is the beautiful Barramundi wrapped in a taco like casing which she calls Milk skin. The exclusively stylish plating is drool worthy and one would want to dig into it right away, and so I did! The milk skin is actually ‘Malai’, inside which sits this flavorful fish ….sinful indeed! Her minced chicken, quite like the Thai Larb is a stunner and marries well with the Black sticky rice.

Chicken Liver/Toast.....couldn't be better than this!

Right off the bat, Prateek Sadhu takes the trail less trekked with something familiar, yet done in a totally outlandish way.

Ice lolly of Seabuckthorn is served with a black pepper mousse, and presented simply and beautifully that you can mistake this pre dessert for a Salmon and cream cheese bagel. Goodness, we have this berry in Ladakh and I have never experienced it like this before. I wish I had a few more bites. It’s refreshing, subtly sweet and umami!Indeed yes, I have had standout meals with a robust native focus, but Masque is the first to offer such a panoramic swing of the country. Each dish in the menu ended up as short term lesson for geography , history and a compliment to our home-grown culture.

Divine Duck Doughnuts

THUMBS UP

 1.When talking about native and exclusive  produce, India is absolutely abundant. For  a hunter like Sadhu, our country is  an absolute cornucopia.

  2. The menu cultivates a passion for taste

 3. Respectful of the seasons from genuine tastes the plates are classical and original

 My able company at the Gaa Masque collaboration meal! DiviaThani Editor In Chief of Conde Nast Traveller Magazine, Purva Mehra co founder & Editor The Daily Pao & Greg Foster Editor Architectural Digest

ROMANO'S AT THE BRAND NEW JW MARRIOTT, SAHAR IN MUMBAI

As I walked through the doors twice (yes I had a meal here on two consecutive evenings) of this Italian Adventure, I was overwhelmed with the majestic feel of a multi levelled restaurant replete with a 25 feet high ceiling , two flights of stairs, a vibrant show kitchen and exotic fragrance of Italian food. The restaurant consists a rich bar (as in the wine is excellent!) and of course I cannot talk of the bar and not mention ‘Ema’ the vivacious bartender ever ready to whip you up a heady cocktail of your choice and she keeps her bar like a Laboratory where she is forever experimenting with new flavours only to present her best and boldest creations: drinks like the Oak-aged Negroni with cherry wood smoke and the JW style spiced Old Fashioned with homemade garam masala syrup.

A visit to the kitchen revealed that there truly are a lot of specialists working in here and chef keeps them all busy. Pasta dishes are made in-house, and completely by hand, in the old artisanal way. For example to make perfect Tortellini (round shaped) one needs talent, experience, dedication, a professional environment and simply a lot time and trust me this and the rest of the handmade pasta menu that includes a wide range of delicacies like Gnocchi (made of potatoes only), a series of artfully shaped of pasta pockets like Raviolo (square-shaped) as well as noodles that vary in size from very thin ones Angel Hair to very broad ones Pappardelle are no less spectacular. 

But before that, savour the selection of antipasti, soups and chef’s salad selection. The vibe is homey, comfort Italian chow like ‘Minestrone’ and ‘Aglio olio’ are done to perfection.

Recommendations go all out for the Burrata, which means ‘buttered,’ a luscious, creamy fresh cheese made by mixing cream and unspun mozzarella curds together,  this is one simple dish which tastes good only if done right  and here kissed by sweet basil pesto alongside heirloom tomatoes was absolutely decadent to the core. The warm mushroom salad wasn’t bad either with parsley and roasted garlic, though it could have done with a little less salt.It was the exceptional sea bass baked in parchment paper, fragrant with lemon sauce and clams that was the most stellar preparation. The menu is concise and changed seasonally; in keeping with the spirit of Italian cooking, everything is fresh and the flavours are kept simple so they balance each other. Desserts, too, are exemplary especially the ‘Tiramisu’ a fluffy sponge combined with exotic flavours of espresso and cocoa ,layered with mascarpone served out of a porcelain dish which one is allowed to gorge on unlimited and trust me you may end up eating half of the bowl, so do save space.

FAST FACTS

Romano’s is at the JW Marriott Hotel Mumbai Sahar, IA Project Road, Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Sahar, Andheri East, Mumbai

Tel: 022 33956233
Timings: Open only for dinner all days of the week.

VEGETARIANISM THE LATEST FAD

Hectic lifestyles with a bombardment of health messages sure leave most of us confused. Most of us try diets, and the latest trend now is a Vegetarian food diet and there are posh only vegetarian restaurants opening by the dozen! Transition to vegetarianism is on the rise and more and more people are worried about what they are eating and soon enough Vegetarian food consumption will boom worldwide.

DID YOU KNOW?

According to research, vegetarians tend to live longer on an average than those who eat meat-based food regularly. This is the main reason why people all around the world are becoming vegetarians. After all, herbivores are generally healthier than carnivores. This is also the reason why doctors recommend following a vegetarian diet to patients with obesity, arthritis, asthma, osteoporosis, gout, ulcers, arthritis, hypertension, allergies, gallstones, piles, colitis, kidney stones, depression, and premenstrual syndrome.

Interestingly Vegetarianism dates back to a time before recorded history. Many anthropologists believe that most early humans ate primarily plant foods, being more gatherers than hunters. While being a vegetarian isn’t for everyone (including me), I meet lots of people every day who tell me they are vegetarians or would like to become one! According to many big name industry analysts and food companies, is that vegetarian dining and a reduced level of meat consumption is a rapid growing top food trend across the world. Proof of this can be found in the grocery store. Where Heinz used to be the only vegetarian baked beans available, now there are several varieties on the shelf, from Campbell’s to store brands. On most menus throughout the US, Canada and Europe I noticed vegetarian options for those who prefer the vegetarian diet. Vegetarians believe that this diet is much healthier than the average diet, which includes animal products. Last time when I flew by Emirates to Seattle, I noticed the vegetarian meal option seemed very creative for an airplane.

The Vegetarian Mezze Platter On Emirates Business Class

At a wedding dinner I again noticed a gamut of dishes for the vegetarians and while eating in a restaurant in India, l have noticed the growing trend toward vegetarianism. 

 Verdure Ripiene - at Artusi, a posh Italian Restaurant in Delhi

Interestingly on a recent trip to Mumbai I stayed at the Sofitel Luxury Hotel and I was mesmerized by the splendour of classical French Heritage and the magnificence, beauty and luxury of a world-class hotel. Interestingly with The Bharat Diamond Bourse aka the world’s largest Diamond Bourse having moved to Bandra Kurla Complex, Sofitel Luxury Hotel has been smart and opened ‘Tuskers’, a Vegetarian Dining Bar especially for the selective eaters.

True to its name the restaurant is inspired by the most regal of creatures, the merciful vegetarians i.e. the Elephants. I found Tuskers to be a delicious mix of contemporary ambience echoed in the rich warm leathers, walnut chesterfields, carpets, grill works, elephant motifs and plush wood. The restaurant had on offer the choicest vegetarian fare, simmered to perfection in the most exotic spices. To complement the food, the wine cellar houses a fine repertoire of wines and the bar offers a range of exclusive and rare single malts, as well as classic cocktails.

A VEGETARIAN SAGA BY MICHELIN STAR CHEF VIKAS KHANNA

Master chef Vikas Khanna recently launched his book alongside KitchenAid’s cordless hand blender with excellent Vegetarian recipes.

‘Hymns from the Soil’ is an exquisite amalgamation of gentle, pure, heart-warming tales from a vegetarian kitchen that overflows with nature’s harvest. The recipes in the book accentuate the purity and spirituality of vegetarian food while bringing in cultural and regional nuances. This food journey is interspersed with Vikas’s own personal journey – whether it is going back to his kitchen garden in Amritsar and waiting for the cardamom to grow as a curious child or to exploring the cardamom spice farms as an adult, with the same level of excitement and enthusiasm. Hymns from the Soil offers a heartening tribute as Chef Vikas Khanna bows to Mother Earth.

CELEBRITY BYTES

Gaurav Gera

Shahid Kapoor is the winner of the title of Asia's Sexiest Vegetarian Man for 2011 after a fierce battle on PETA Asia Pacific website. Singer Faye Wong had been crowned Asia's Sexiest Vegetarian Woman. 

Actor Director Deepak Tijori

Actor Director Deepak Tijori has been a vegetarian all his life, ‘I relish simple vegetarian spicy food. I love moong and masoor dal and any good dish made out of potatoes… and I make the most awesome masala rice and aloo pyaaz tamatar ki subzi’, shares Tijori. 

Gaurav Gera, who is now the famed “Jhumroo” at Kingdom of Dreams is a vegetarian too and loves salads, ‘Being a pure vegetarian sometimes I don’t have too many options if Iam travelling’, jokes Gera, ‘That said, My favourite cuisine is South Indian. I often come to ‘Chennai’ at culture gully at Kingdom of Dreams for the Dosas’, he further adds. 

Comedian Gurpreet Ghuggi gave up Non-vegetarian food as he thinks vegetarian food is healthier.

Comedian Gurpreet Ghuggi

 ORGANICALLY VEGETARIAN

Certified organic vegetarian products are generally more expensive than their conventional counterparts; this is because the organic food supply is limited as compared to demand. Production costs for organic foods are typically higher because of greater labour input and because farmers don't produce enough of a single product to lower the overall cost. In spite of that within the last year most supermarkets began setting up organic vegetarian food sections to sell mostly locally grown organic produce including fresh vegetables, fruits, rice and tea. The popularity of organic foods can also be attributed to promotional and educational efforts conducted by local academic and environmental groups.

All in all vegetarian practices meet the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs…so GO Green…what say?

HEALTH BENEFITS OF BEING A VEGETARIAN

> Studies have shown that by following a well-balanced low-fat high-fibre vegetarian diet one would have lower incidence of coronary artery disease, hypertension, obesity and a fewer varieties of cancer.

>This diet is lower in total fat, and one consumes proportionally a lot of polyunsaturated fat to saturated fat compared with non-vegetarians.

> Look younger - The content of fibre and lycopene in fruits and vegetables can prevent wrinkles as it serves as an antioxidant that reduces the potential for skin damage caused by free radicals.

  > With a diet is full of nuts, whole grains, fresh fruits, and vegetables; one is likely to maintain a stable blood sugar level more stable. The outcome of this stability is consistent energy levels, which eventually does not bring about any fatigue feeling, especially post meals.

    > Most of the diet is capable of detoxing your body naturally.

IRANI CAFES- THEN & NOW

A peek into those old parts of Mumbai that still remain!

My last trip to Mumbai brought back some delicious memories of living in South Bombay along with the ‘Irani’ cafes which were in those days’ iconic features at nearly every corner in that area that I patronized in my younger days. I was awed by the big glass jars filled with biscuits, cookies and other items which lined up at most of the Irani cafes; and equally by the cute eccentric owners with a set of rules which included ‘No Division of Beverages’, ‘No credit’, ‘No combing’, ‘No address query’ to name a few. Honest to goodness, value for money was the success key. Once ahead of their time, these cafes sadly have become a fast disappearing trend and some have been even converted to bars. Reports have it that while there were 350 in the 1950s; by 2005 the number had dwindled to just 25. Most surviving Irani cafés today are over 100 years old, time capsules of a bygone era replete with red chequered table cloths, bentwood chairs, marble or glass topped tables, chandeliers, portraits on the walls and a general air of quiet decay.

INTERESTING TRIVIA

Apparently, a superstition amongst the Gujarati traders was that the corner shops were inauspicious for business. So these technically premium places, which gave access to the premises from two streets remained unoccupied. The Iranis who had come in and were setting up their restaurants lapped up many of these building corner shops. So even today, most of Mumbai’s remaining Irani cafes are found on building corners.

I talk here of the top three quaint and indispensable ones …

JIMMY BOY

No flash décor here but the food more than makes up for it. You can fill yourself with a soulful Parsi meal or an afternoon snack like the Kheema Pav for mere two hundred and fifty bucks or less. Loyal customers flock to this cafe like hungry children to their school cafeteria as the food is inexpensive but delicious. Sample this, ‘Brun bread’ with ‘Maska’ tingling into the mildly sweet taste of the bun. Maska aka butter, is the Irani answer to all of life’s problems. Bruns are quite similar to French breads. Round balls, crusty outside, soft inside, taste heavenly when fresh, warm, sliced with a generous dollop of butter slathered in and dipped it in the sweet and milky tea.

Lip Smacking- Brun Maska with cheeni kam Chai, Dhanshak, Kheema Pav, Lagan nu Bhonu (a Parsi wedding sampler menu for just INR 650), Malai Kulfi and Lagan nu custard.

Address- Vikas Building, 11 Bank Street, opposite cheetah gate, Old custom house, Lane off Horniman circle, Fort, Mumbai -23

Tel: 022 22700880/22662503

Timings: 11 Am to 11pm

BRITANNIA &COMPANY

Located amidst picturesque stone buildings of Ballard Estate, this high-ceilinged café is more quaint than posh and serves the best berry pulao in town, so much so that the likes of Queen Elizabeth and the Bachchan family are absolute die-hard fans. With a garnish of golden-fried onions and berries imported from Iran, 92 year old owner Boman Kohinoor keeps the recipe a guarded secret and happily hops around tables and personally attends to every guest with great gusto!

Lip Smacking- Mutton berry Pulav, Sali Boti (mutton), Raspberry Soda, Fry Bombay Duck (bombil fish), Egg Masala, Fish Patra and Caramel custard. 

Address- 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, opposite new custom House.

Tel: 022 22615264/30225264

Timings- Open for lunch only. Reservations advised.

KYANI & CO

The unassuming façade of the café, flanked by dilapidated shop houses does not entice at all, but as you step within, you enter a different world that gently exudes Persian old world charm and an amazing fragrance of fresh baking. There are few smells as heady as the aroma of baking in the world of food, and it totally works for me. The fare is decadent to the core and I would highly recommend a quick stop for the crisp butter kharis, layered salted biscuits, and the Irani tea, a thick overly milky, sweetened tea delicately flavoured with cardamom, it’s to die for!

Lip Smacking- Chicken Farcha, Mutton chops, Baingan Fry, Parsee Akuri (scrambled eggs Persian style), Mawa Cake, Cream puff and Khari biscuits with chai.

Address- 657, Jer Mahal Estate, Opposite Metro Theatre, J.S.S Road, Dhobi Talao, Kalbadevi.

Tel: 022 22011492

Timings: 6:30 Am to 9 pm

published in The Man

PIZZA METRO PIZZA, MUMBAI

CHILL ZONE

PIZZA METRO PIZZA, MUMBAI

The Lowdown – For those who do not know Antonio & Alberto were the founders of Pizza Metro Pizza in Battersea, back in 1993. They were the 1st real Neapolitan people to embark an authentic family run Neapolitan restaurant. They launched the meter long pizzas which browned in a wood burning oven. In 2003 Pizza Metro was acquired by Diego Palladino and Brian Witcomb who has flown down his chefs all the way from Italy to Mumbai now. Coming to the food, the USP of course is the metre long pizza! And I loved the fact that the food is served in traditional style aka pots & pans, which gives a warm and a homely feel. What sets this pizzeria apart is also the of chilli oil as a seasoning, and of course there are other Italian dishes on the menu as well.

Ambience- What caught my fancy was a mural sketch on the wall of a classic Neapolitan food market hand painted by Geoff Gough and I simply loved the auto rickshaw element in it. The walls adorn lively and entertaining posters and the various antiques placed all around add to the rustic charm.

Lip-smacking- ‘Tagliolini Bombay’ which is prepared in a parmesan wheel, flambéed with cognac and the pasta tossed into all of it….absolutely decadent! ‘Scialatielli Pesciosa’ comprising of a rich combination of seafood in a tangy sauce, and the ‘Metro Penne’ is a diving indulgence for meat lovers. To end on a sweet note, Chef Diego surprises with the dessert of the day!

Don't even go there –If you think parking is a hassle and if you have a small appetite and want to especially go for the metre long pizza.

‘Man’ Speak – All meats and no chicken make for an authentic Italian pizza & Chef Diego makes no exceptions to the rule. That said there are other items on the menu with chicken in order to suit the Indian palate. Needless to add on offer is a great selection of premium wines & spirits which marry the food very well.

How to get there – Jharna Apartments, Dr B R Ambedkar Road, Bandra West, Mumbai-400050. Next to Barbeque Nation, the nearest station is Khar.

Tel-022 6599 3333/022 6599 3334

Timings- 12.00 pm to 3.00 pm and 6.00 pm to 11.30 pm (closed on Mondays).

Cost – A meal for two would cost around 1,500 INR without Alcohol.

Published in The Man