Thursday, October 16, 2008

MOLECULAR CUISINE AT KABLE'S SYDNEY

Kable’s at the plush Four Seasons Hotel exudes class from the minute you walk in (through the lobby’s sweeping grand staircase) until the time you leave. The rich carpeting, flooring of inlaid woodwork, chic off-white and earthy brown theme through the restaurant gives it a stark beauty. A culinary landmark in the heart of Sydney, offering the finest of modern Australian cuisine, Kable’s scores top on its unique cuisine (read molecular gastronomy in all of its dishes) and is a joy to discover for jaded taste buds. Kable's also uses the Sous vide (read slow) cooking method in most of its dishes. In a Layman's terminology "Sous vide" is the practice of cooking food at low temperatures in vacuum-packed plastic bags in a water bath. The Food cooked by this method looks firm and neat (read rawish) but absolutely tender and melts in the mouth and because nojuices have escaped owing to the plastic bags, the flavors remain intact, add a little garlic while cooking and it's simply delicious.
Coming to the food, to begin to savor the flavors we made a grand gesture with the quintessential “Pan Fried Foie Gras, Pistachio and Macadamia, Roasted Strawberry Puree, Transparent Chicken Penne” ($42), the roasted strawberry puree adds a twang to the flavor and the chicken Penne is superbly done- a bite of molecular heaven as it’s not pasta but Penne made out of chicken consomm√©. This was just very, very good cooking: intense, and obtusely original, in the sense that it’s not rooted in history or region or culinary orthodoxy or fashion. Another starter we tried was the “Seared Scallops, Toro, Pickled Ginger Caviar, Ponzu, Coriander Cress and Powdered Sesame Oil” ($28), the classic viand scallops in flavorful Ponzu (citrus based sauce) are superlative and I must say that the pickled ginger caviar is the epicurean apogee of molecular cooking, delicate and wobbly and they popped like balloons in my mouth to reveal a juicy center - intense, fruity and the type you'd want to drink directly from the bottle. My glass of pinot Gris pike and Joyce ($11) was excellent with my meal. Kudos also for the “Soft-Cured Ocean Trout, Smoked Sour Cream, Baby Radish, Fennel and Seaweed Salad” ($25), an exquisite concoction with an airy smoky flavor. Ever so willing to experiment “Chef Justin Baziuk”, thrills with offerings like this clever pan roasted one “Pan-Roasted Venison Loin, Beetroot Jam, Hot Chocolate Ice Cream, Cocoa Soil and Roasted Almond Butter” ($42), the combination is beyond compare. Recommendations also go for the “Braised White Rabbit Pappardelle, Tarragon, Peas and Truffle” ($ 30); the Pappardelle has a flavor so unique and distinct and marries well with the tarragon. All your other senses are abruptly awoken and you taste the food like you have never tasted it before. It makes you rethink everything.You may also go for the Degustation menu as the varied mix ensures all your taste buds are awakened to robust glory. I’d suggest share your desserts as all are gratifying running the gamut from Sunny side up looking mango and cream combination (I’d say the tastiest molecules ever) or the liquid nitrogen chilled ice-creams. However my vote goes all and all out for “Liquid Centre Brillat-Savarian Panna Cotta” ($ 28) Summer Vegetables & Buttered Brioche, its melt in the mouth tender and decadent to the core. I’d simply put it this way Food on paper is only ever an approximation of food in the mouth and this one was a sensual enjoyment.
The Service –efficient and professional, yet witty and engaging-is clearly some of the best you’ll find in OZ.It sure was a fun eating meal while forgetting a new understanding of the way food behaves. Reservations are advised and if you’d like to get behind the scenes for a unique culinary experience i.e. the chef's table ( Pax 10-16), remember it is offered on Tuesdays to Saturdays from 7:00 pm wherein the chef creates a personalized five-course menu, each course expertly paired with wines from their extensive wine list. The Head Chef Carl Middleton's also takes you on a guided tour of the kitchen, including chocolate tasting in the Chocolate Room.
I couldn’t help applauding the Chef for the food he made and as a kind gesture from the restaurant chef I got to tour the kitchen and learn some liquid nitrogen cooking. The chef gave me some bread croutons and when I dipped one with a tweezer like equipment Voila it froze in a second.