SINGAPORE- A CULINARY PARADISE

Whether it is roughing it in a simple beachside site with no amenities or living it up in a plush city, my college mates and I get-together once in a year. This time round we decided to do a reccee on Singapore roads to discover food and of course shopping was on our agenda as well (what with inexpensive packages at lean time). We had booked ourselves in Swissotel Merchant Court in order to be closest to Clarke Quay, the most happening night out place in Singapore.

 After freshening up and a quick Breakfast later we decided to go to Orchard Road for some shopping. The brand new Ion Orchard Mall sure looked stunning and what caught my fancy was a dainty little Tea place called TWG. I discovered that Established in Singapore, The Wellness Group (full form of TWG) Tea offers over 800 types of tea. I loved the tea and the macaroons menu. It was a pleasure to look at the rows of tea canisters lining up in the dark wood paneling and shelves. Needles to add I bought some “Singapore Breakfast Tea” and something called “weekend in Shanghai”, absolutely delicious especially how the Tea expert Alex brewed it for me.

Breakfast at the “Killiney Post office” the next day was quite a uniquely fun thing to do. It was interesting to watch people buy their stamps, post letters etc while we were sipping on our cuppa coffee and some American Breakfast. More shopping on Orchard Road and Buguis village later, we had Hawker food at Maxwell in the afternoon, a great place for those on a shoestring budget. The setting is food court style and the centre is clean, cheap, and offers diverse and delectable food. There was this huge long line for the chicken rice stall. When my friend Ravi came with our chicken rice, I soon realized why. The chicken broth infused rice, tender chicken, and the dipping sauces all perfectly complimented each other. 

Later in the evening the gang and I went over to “The Tippling Club” housed next to Spa Esprit on 8B Dempsey Road. In this restaurant, home to one of the country’s greatest culinary getaways, you need a reservation, of course. We started with a Singapore Sling each outdoors which came in with all the drama and I’d say it was much better than the one we had at the Raffles the night before. Once inside the restaurant we could witness Chef Ryan and his staff on a steel island where they concoct food that surprises.

Mixologist Matthew Bax’s unique cocktails complement the chef's food. Ryan and Matthew are partners in the restaurant, as is Cynthia Chua of Spa Esprit. Anyways to start with we first got “char-grilled” capsicums lightly coated in batter, with soy Wasabi dip, which we ate using forceps. This was followed by fried calamari rings served with a sweet basil emulsion, which we were to slurp up from a curly straw. I loved the champagne carbonated frozen grapes with mint julep, which came in next. There was more good food later like the Pumpkin soup, Pork Belly and char grilled frog legs and snow ball for dessert. I would simply say that all dishes had the perfect equilibrium of flavors and the spirit of originality that reigns in this theatrical environment would never cease to attract the most demanding gourmet.

After a lazy morning and still hankering for Singapore chilli crab, we hopped on to “Long Beach Seafood” on Dempsey Hill (which seemed to have become our hang out place). Glad we were as many of us as the best set menus are for 10 people.On offer was an extensive range of fresh and delectable seafood dishes such as the air-flown Alaskan crab, Australian Lobster and Canadian geoduck and oysters. We ordered the famed chilli crab of course which came with some steamed Chinese buns. There are lots of different versions but it's generally made using mud crabs. Ours was the authentic Singaporean dish version using Sri Lankan crabs that are far smaller, sweeter and have tougher flesh suitable for longer periods of cooking. While the name Chilli Crab surely conjures up an image of hot and spicy, it was actually mild spicing with a hint of sweetness. The gravy was nice, flavorful and starchy with the addition of chicken eggs.

After lunch we went for a visit to the Asians art museum and a river cruise to the famed Merloin Park, some more shopping later at The Esplanade Mall we had dinner at “My Humble House” (it’s a restaurant, lest you think I have a home in Singapore). This reputable establishment has a loyal local following and tourists alike. Well, just stepping into this one feels like royalty! Presentation is cheerful and very upscale with prices to match.The food is Superlative running the gamut from crispy tiger Prawns glazed with citrus cream on grapes salsa to wok fried fish noodle with seafood in X.O sauce. The more common fare ranges from crispy noodles to fried chicken. For esoterics try the wild berries lemongrass gelo with Lime sorbet. Service at this well –appointed restaurant is near faultless.

Yes of course most of our late evenings were spent at Clarke quay, the location is terrific for one thing, and it is at the waterfront of a historical riverside quay near the mouth of the Singapore River. It’s buzzing at night with bars et all and the night scene is terrific and absolutely a safe place to walk around even if you are alone. We loved sipping on Tiger Beer or just some wine by the river and chatting up, catching on old times. And of course we did the unique Reverse Bungee-jumping at the Clarke as well. It sure was a fun vacation and I’d simply put it this way that Singapore’s fine city reputation is well-earned, and in fact, most people like me will admire at once the clean, modern metropolis and Certainly the Island Republic of Singapore as a culinary paradise is well earned and merits more than one reflection of what makes good eating.

Published in ET Travel in Oct 2009 (writer Rupali Dean)

PAIRING THE BUBBLY

 “Champagne is known as the “King of wines” or as most people say it is the “wine for kings”. Probably the best description of Champagne is by Dom Perignon when he had his first taste, “Come quickly, I am tasting stars”. Usually served as an aperitif or as a toast at the end of a meal; hence it is often overlooked when it comes to food. However, because Champagne is naturally acidic, it makes a really good food match - and not just for oysters and caviar as you might predict, but for a variety of different foods. Most people reserve Champagne only for tasting but I can assure you it would be the perfect drink for your next cocktail, brunch or Vacation Party! I also feel one reason people shy away from champagne is as they are not too sure what types of foods to pair with it. I would like to add here that it is a must have for any fan of sparkling wines or nice dry whites, and remember to have it with some food as champagnes are not just for celebration after all. So go on and give it a go if you can, it's a great wine from an amazing and historic winery, and trust me - you won't be disappointed! Once in awhile, you should serve it just for the sheer pleasure to be derived from its tricky bubbles.

BASICS

Heavy foods or main entrees, usually do not go well with Champagne, however there are innumerous foods that pair beautifully with it, making for yummy finger foods and an elegant looking soirée. The thumb rule is that the food shouldn't overtake the wine. Therefore the food you serve with champagne should be light, not spicy and not oily. The food you choose ought to be more along the line of light appetizers or light, soft cheese and eggs.

THE MARRIAGE

Blanc de Blanc Champagne

The Grape- Literally translates into white wine from white grapes and this is made exclusively from Chardonnay.

Goes great with- Sushi makes a winning combination. Seafood like Oysters, crustaceans and gently flavored white fish. It is also good with vegetables and great as a pre-dinner aperitif. Goat cheese goes very well with Blanc de Blanc. I simply love it with Sushi.

Blanc de Noirs

The Grape- made solely from red Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with a deeper golden color than the Blanc de Blanc.

Goes great with- Lighter meat dishes like chicken dinners, pigeon breast, partridge, veal, and Pork. Is also wonderful with cheese. It went really well with one of the Light chicken dinners with vegetables that I had hosted.

Non-Vintage Champagnes

The Grape- While most houses mix together the three main grape varieties that are planted in the Champagne appellation – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – the proportion of each will vary. Some non-vintage wines are wholly made from Chardonnay (Blanc de Blanc) or from black grapes (Blanc de noirs). They are made from grapes from multiple vintages.

Goes great with- Generally fruitier and lighter hence recommended with cheeses such as Beaufort, Gruyère and Emmental. It is also great with mushroom dishes especially mushroom risotto. As for me I love it my Fish and Chips and scrambled eggs too.

Vintage Champagnes

The Grape- A vintage is that which is made from grapes that were mostly grown and harvested in a particular year. Vintage year is declared if the Champagne is good enough and a cut above other years. The grapes used are all from one specific vintage.

Goes great with- Black truffle-scented foods and with cheeses such as Parmesan and lightly smoked foods. All types of fish and seafood, especially when accompanied with a creamy sauce are a perfect match, as are lightly smoked foods, cheese, duck, caviar and poultry with a rich sauce. As for me I love White Tuna Carpaccio with Truffles paired with Tattinger’s Vintage version. Moet Et Chandon with their vintage recommend grilled King Prawns marinated in citrus fruit (lemon, grapefruit, orange) or smoked haddock with aniseed butter and pureed fennel.

Non-Vintage Rosé

The Grape- Commonly known as Pink champagne is either from extended contact with the grape skins or by the addition of some red wine.

Goes great with- A very food friendly wine goes well with prawns, lobster and other seafood. It will go wonderfully with the freshness of a delicious Andalusian gazpacho.I love it with a grilled Fillet of sole Fish topped with lemon butter or simply some Ham.

Vintage Rosé

The Grape- As the non –Vintage, but, the wine is from a Vintage year (a cut above the rest).

Goes great with- Most have a rich, savory character and is delicious with meat dishes, and the power to stand up to high levels of herbs and spices specifically basil, mint and coriander as well as Japanese cuisine. I think scallops, roasted, with grilled red peppers and chopped almonds are decadent with the Moet Et Chandon Brut Imperial Vintage Rose.

Demi Sec Champagnes

The Grape- Demi Sec is a term used to define a wine with medium sweetness; it can be a blend of any grapes. In Champagne, the addition of a dosage or liquer d’expedition after the secondary fermentation determines sweetness.

Goes great with- Foie gras is an obvious example. An edge of sweetness to the food (like many classic Thai recipes) then this style can provide a better match than dry. Dessert dishes too of course, but only if not too sweet. Duval Leroy suggests bread and butter pudding, jam pancakes and apple and quince tart with the Demi-Sec. It is recommended at weddings when serving the wedding cake. I love it with strawberries

Published in HT city (writer Rupali Dean)

GO MICHELIN

GO MICHELIN

A study revealed that the award of a Michelin star rests almost entirely on the culinary skills of the chef, who is usually also the owner. According to Michelin, stars reflect “what’s on the plate and only what’s on the plate”. Other criteria, such as ambience and service, are indicated by fork and spoon symbols, and do not affect star ratings. However, the Michelin offers no written criteria for its star ratings, and the system is complex. In addition to excellence in food, tradition seems to be a large element in gaining or retaining a star rating. Exquisitely planned and executed food, timely and friendly service and the overall passion and excitement that ooze from a restaurant, sure seem to be some of the reasons for winning dining accolades. That said, with these winners the motive is not to feed the stomach but the soul. When this being the objective, the resulting ambience and service provided create a unique environment….

The 2010 awards, which were announced at the Guildhall in London, proclaimed these as the Top 5 in the Michelin Guide….!

DID YOU KNOW?

• The maximum Michelin stars a restaurant (not the chef) can obtain are 3.

Michelin give their stars the following meaning:

*** Exceptional kitchen, worth the travel.

** Refined kitchen, worth a detour.

* A very good restaurant.

• The Michelin star rating is the most recognized rating system in the culinary world for all of Western Europe.

• Since 1955, the guide has also highlighted restaurants offering “good food at moderate prices”, a feature now called “Bib Gourmand”.

• The Michelin guides were originally produced for motorists in France by the Michelin tyre company.

• The Rising Star distinction, introduced in 2006, highlights the best restaurants in each category, which may move up to the next level soon.

NOMA

LOCATION-Two Michelin starred Noma, is built in an elegant 18th century warehouse situated on the docks far from the madding crowd and is the perfect place for a culinary sojourn of Danish food. The name “Noma” is an acronym of the two Nordic words “Nordisk”, alias Nordic, and “Mad”, aka food.

THE CHEF- After cooking at some of the worlds most prestigious restaurants, including under Ferran Adria at El bulli and Thomas Keller at The French Laundry, 32 year old Rene Redzepi became chef and co-founder of Noma in 2003.

THE FOOD- Redzepi has tailored traditional, regional spirit to the modern gourmet with the accomplishment of an enthusiastic chef in search of new experiences and has created dishes like radishes in edible soil and sea buckthorn leather and hip roses. Noma’s bread which is served with “virgin” butter and pork fat with scratching is a fine meal in itself.

USP- Noma’s success can be attributed to Redzepi’s in depth knowledge of the produce of his Nordic terroir. His unbending attitude towards cooking seasonally and locally has ensured him the top position in the Michelin guide.

FAST FACTS

NOMA, Strandgade 93

1401 Copenhagen K, Denmark

Tel: +45 3296 3297

Opening hours:

Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday: 12.00pm to 4.00pm.

Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday: 6.30 pm to 10.00 pm

Website- www.noma.dk

Average cost of a meal per person: 220 Pounds with wine. (Approx 17,500 INR)

EL BULLI

LOCATION- This three Michelin starred restaurant is set across beautiful, green hills and right by the water above the seaside town of Roses on the Costa Brava, it is a somewhat hair-raising drive up a narrow one track road that seems to go on forever before the restaurant finally hovers into view. That said, after you have had over a dozen memorable dishes for which you would happily allow yourself to be driven along a tortuous road.

THE CHEF- Ferran Adria is known for his Avant Garde approach to cooking which uses hi tech methods to “deconstruct” and rebuild ingredients in surprising ways. He is always there in his restaurant, a rarity these days: a celebrity chef who actually cooks!

THE FOOD- There are more people in the kitchen than there are customers which is justified as each menu comprises more than 30 dishes per table, most of them eaten in a bite or two, one is swung from sweet to savoury and back, the dishes oscillating from ambient to frozen to hot to frozen again. Food here is a fast paced dining rollercoaster, with explosive flavors and textural surprises that await you at every turn Famous for ethereal foams, which aim to capture the essence of a flavour, will leave anyone spellbound.

USP- No other restaurant that I know opens for such a short period, from end April to October, which allows their laboratory in Barcelona to create a vast number of new dishes over the winter for the following year.

PLEASE NOTE- The restaurant is closing next July (2012) or rather switching direction to become a culinary foundation once Adria returns from a two and half year break.

FAST FACTS

EL BULLI, Cala Montjoi, Roses, Spain

Tel: 972 15 04 57

Opening hours: Open from April to October for dinner only.

E-mail- bulli@elbulli.com

Website- www.elbulli.com

Average cost of a meal per person: 270 Euros with wine. (Approx 17,600 INR)

FAT DUCK

LOCATION-Tucked away in the ivy strewn embrace of Bray a quaint village where the vibrancy of the many rose bushes sprout up in blazing, unabashed crimson along the meandering, moss covered footpaths, this simple three Michelin star Restaurant stands in all its grace.

THE CHEF- Chef Heston Blumenthal has been described as a culinary alchemist for his innovative style of cuisine. He is also referred to as a Mad Hatter; the consummate (power) pourer of the Tea of Possibilities that will be forever brewing.

THE FOOD- The tasting menu serves about a dozen courses such as snail porridge; salmon poached in licorice gel; and the famed Sound of the Sea, where customers don earphones and listen to lapping waves while consuming seafood washed up on what looks like a beach. The sand is, in fact, a mix of tapioca and fried Japanese breadcrumbs. One would rarely come across a dish for which sound is an integral part of the experience…truly the food here is a joy for all the senses.

USP- Chef Blumenthal’s teaches one how the senses are far more selective and subjective than we think, and then have fun thinking like he does to create a Wonderland on your plate! Just the thinking alone will bring about a change in perception regarding food and tasting and flavours and one’s palate. It is not just a meal here, it is a performance of excellence and it motivates a level of personal response and involvement that nestles a new awareness within.

FAST FACTS

THE FAT DUCK, High Street, Bray, Berkshire, SL6 2AQ (U.K.)

Tel: +44 (0) 1628 580 333 between 10.00am and 5.00pm

Opening Hours-

The restaurant is closed on Sunday evening and all day Monday.

Tuesday to Sunday Lunch- 12noon to last order 2pm

Dinner orders-9pm

Website- www.thefatduck.co.uk

Average cost of a meal per person -220 Pounds with wine. (Approx 17,500 INR)

EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA

LOCATION- About 2km from the town’s main boulevard, this three Michelin star restaurant has transformed Girona into one of the more trendy cities of Spain. The building itself is magnificent as you enter and stare at a colonial Spanish building, fully restored to its former glory.

THE CHEF- The place is run by three brothers; Joan Roca is the head chef with an interest in modern technology. Josep Roca is the maitre d’ and head sommelier, and Jordi Roca is the pastry chef, but the food is far from homey, and the space is decidedly modern.

THE FOOD- From caramelized olives stuffed with anchovies hanging on hoops from a bonsai like olive tree to mini omelettes with a bursting caviar centre every dish is a pleasant surprise and leaves you eagerly anticipating the next.

USP- From beginning to the end, El Celler De Can Roca delivers a thoughtful and delicious meal with just enough punches to keep one excited.

FAST FACTS

EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA, Can Sunyer 48, Girona, 17007, Spain.

Tel: 972 22 21 57

Opening Hours-

Everyday 1-4pm, 8.30-11pm. closed on Sundays and Mondays during the first half of July and during the Christmas period.

Website- www.cellercanroca.com

Average cost of a meal per person: The signature dishes menu (three courses and one pudding) costs 95 euros (Approx 6175 INR) and the tasting menu with wine (five courses and two puddings) is 160 euros (Approx 10,400 INR)

MUGARITZ

LOCATION- The restaurant is set high in the countryside hills of Donostia, behind San Sebastian. There’s a rural feel to the surroundings and the fact that you are about to eat at a Two Michelin star is quite a surreal feeling as one watches sheep grazing and listens to the tractors chugging past.

THE CHEF-Andoni Luis Aduriz at 36 years of age has mastered the molecular and rationalized it back to the coherent. He terms his cuisine “technomotion”, combining the words technology and emotion, creating dishes that tantalize not only the palate but also the mind.

THE FOOD- Aduriz’s cuisine features creations like edible “ceramic”, vegetables that have been carbonized into “coal” and tough and chewy cuts of meat that have been made fork-tender by cooking them sous vide (slow cooking in a plastic)for 35 hours. A dish synonymous with Mugaritz, “Rocks” are actually potatoes baked in an edible clay shell. To complete the illusion, there are actual rocks at the bottom of the dish. Vanilla foam with a warm “tablet” made with honey and oats, mimics a bar of soap and soap bubbles.

USP- The chefs are from all over the world and bring back indigenous spices and herbs which are then incorporated into the menus. The herbs are planted and grown in Mugaritz’s herb garden. Basically they import ingredients but not ideas. It is known to be the world’s most original restaurant, beyond creative but still “organic” as opposed to science experiments.

FAST FACTS

MUGARITZ, Aldura Aldea, Caserío Otzazulueta, 20, 20100 Renteria, Spain

Tel: +34 (94) 3518343

Opening Hours- All days for lunch and dinner except Sunday evening and Mondays are days of rest. Closed: 15 December - 15 January & Easter

Website- www.mugaritz.com

Average cost of a meal per person: A la carte 90 Euros to 110 Euros (Approx 5850 INR-7150 INR)

A 12 courses menu with wine 145 Euros (Approx 9425 INR)

published in The Man (writer Rupali Dean)

THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY...read on ...

UPS


• Hard work gets noticed.

• Handsome Salaries if talented.

• Hospitality Industry is booming.

• Get to interact with a lot of people.

• Everyday is a new experience.

DOWNS

• Long working Hours.

• Shifts.

• Stand-alone restaurants may not give lot of employee benefits.

• Difficult to rise up if not talented/skilled.

• Weekly offs normally don’t fall on weekends.


CAREER OPTIONS FOR HOTEL MANAGEMENT GRADUATES

• Management Trainees in Hotels & Related industries.

• Kitchen Management Trainees.

• Operational Trainees.

• Cabin Crew in Airlines.

• Sales & Marketing Executives.

• Managers/supervisors In Tourism

• Catering officers in cruiseliners/ships.

• Entrepreneurship opportunities.

The Hospitality Industry seems to be the fastest growing industry in the world creating more employment opportunities than most other industries. Most of the Hotel Management Institutes aim to prepare graduates for employment in hotel, tourism and services management. The courses focus on hotel operational skills, management practices in the tourism and hospitality industry and the skills needed for continued learning in a changing global business environment. Small classes, hands-on learning experience, state-of-the-art teaching facilities form a part of the course. The Degree Course (The Bachelor of Science (B.Sc.) programme in Hospitality and Hotel Administration is offered by the National Council for Hotel Management and Catering Technology, Pusa, New Delhi and Indira Gandhi National Open University, New Delhi. The Three-year programme equips trainees with all the required skills, knowledge and attitude to efficiently discharge supervisory responsibilities in the Hospitality Sector.

The Bachelor of Science programme comprises in-depth laboratory work for students to acquire the required knowledge and skill standards in the operational areas of Food Production, Food and Beverage Service, Front Office Operation and House keeping. It also imparts substantial managerial inputs in areas such as Sales and Marketing, Financial Management, Human Resource Management, Hotel and Catering Law, Property Management, Entrepreneurship Development, etc. There are many other Hotel Management Institutes as well and all over the country and apart from the degree courses a few short-term courses are available too.

Has anyone ever wondered what must be the life of the people from the hospitality industry? It’s as tough a life as being in the army or even tougher. “Christmas Eve changed for me when I started working in the hospitality industry, everyone else parties these days and I look after them.” Says a restaurant employee. “I don’t remember the last time I spent Diwali with my family” Says a steward with moist eyes.

It’s not just festival time, even other regular days; most of the staff works in shifts. There definitely is a solution to this, the owners should try and work out systems for the betterment of the staff, and restaurants should close down on festivals like Holi, Diwali (like they do abroad on Christmas). Tell me honestly, does anyone go out to eat on Holi or Diwali? No one, restaurants are lying empty, and everyone in India is meeting and greeting their own families, except of course the restaurant staff, whohave no choice. But fortunately it’s not that bad, things are changing now, “ We shut down our restaurant on Diwali, Only do a Pooja in the restaurant that day”, shares a restaurant owner. “I have given my most of my staff straight shifts and break shifts are given in rotation as the staff is happier and more productive then”, says another restaurant owner.

It’s great though in the organizations where employees get all benefits, offs, compensatory offs, there’s job security, better salaries etc. However in some stand-alone restaurants the Service side do get some benefits , but the kitchen guys get nothing at all. Thankfully! Some restaurants realize the value of a good Chef; good staff and pay them well. Some restaurant owners take good care of their staff too. "happy staff= happy customers" is their motto. Infact the Kitchen and Housekeeping department in the hotels have to work the hardest because major revenue in a Hotel is from food and rooms. Food and rooms have to be made with perfection and as soon as possible, which is indeed a big responsibility. The service has to go hand in hand with good food, imagine your “Dosa” lying ready on the kitchen counter for 10 minutes but you get it late (read dead) due to delay in service.

For successful operations the whole team has to work symbiotically and trust me working in the Hotel Industry can be a whole lot of fun inspite of the long working hours and especially if you’re good at your work and you get recognized for it. Probably this is the only industry where growth (position & salary wise) depends on talent and not age.

Such talented Examples are Ashish Shukla, who heads Cinepolis in India. Rahul Pandit who’s Chief Operating Officer of The Lemon Tree Hotels, Chef Bakshish Dean Corporate Chef LiteBite foods, New Delhi, Chef Neeta Nagraj who’s now Corporate Chef with Jaypee Hotels was Executive Chef Taj Palace New Delhi at a very young age, Chef Sanjeev Kapoor who’s a well known figure. Budding Master Chef Judge Chef Kunal kapur, Chef Gaggan Anand who owns Gaggans in Bangkok (serving Indian food with molecular gastronomy) and is doing India proud, Chef Manu Chandra who heads Olive Bangalore and Mumbai, Vijay Dewan at The Park Hotels, Sharad Puri, General Manager at The Trident Chennai, Chef Saby -Oilve and ai,  Deepak Ohri -CEO Lebua Hotels, Tejpal Uberoi at the Suryaa- New Delhi, Robyn Bickford & Manav Garewal at The Aman (won best General Managers in the world award)......

My list can go on as there are many more such talented people. I would simply end by writing, working in the Hospitality Industry is a great career and those who are smart, efficient and talented get recognized and move on. As a matter of fact some even become really well known and later have enough options to do on their own.

Cheers!

Life Behind The Glamour

The Hospitality Industry seems to be the fastest growing industry in the world creating more employment opportunities than most other industries. Has anyone ever wondered what must be the life of the people from the hospitality industry?

Follow my blog tomorrow to read more.....

RUPALI DEAN -TRAVELLER AND FOODIE: TRUFFLE HUNTING EXPEDITION IN ITALY’S TRUFFLE CAPITAL

RUPALI DEAN -TRAVELLER AND FOODIE: TRUFFLE HUNTING EXPEDITION IN ITALY’S TRUFFLE CAPITAL

TRUFFLE HUNTING EXPEDITION IN ITALY’S TRUFFLE CAPITAL

By Rupali Dean



The true star of Piedmont’s cuisine is beyond a doubt the Tuber Magnatum Pico, commonly known as the white truffle of Alba….Piemonte’s white gold...



As unconditional food frenzy, the hunt for the white truffle was among my top priorities on my trip to Piemonte, especially because I have enjoyed the delight that the white truffle brings. Truffles can fetch as much as 5000 euros a kilo at a connoisseurs market...but one needs to beware of heavy, clay-covered or even fake specimens for the same exorbitant price. Famed for its intense aroma and flavour, the Alba truffle is Nero (black) or bianco (white) and is sniffed out of the ground by dogs. Interestingly in the past truffle hunters used pigs to find the truffle, but the pigs that they were they tried to pig out the truffle right away and also because it is easier to train a dog. Also a dog is happy to sniff out the truffles then patiently wait for his reward, and Iam sure it must be rather difficult to wrestle a tuber away from a 300-pound truffle gorging pig…what say?

BEFORE THE HUNT

Though the best time for truffle hunting is early in the morning owing to the moisture in the air which helps the dogs smell the unique and beautiful aroma easily, but lazy I settled for a more refined hour of 10 Am. So off I, set to Roddi near Alba, all geared in attire for a jungle trek. Roddi is an area rich in all things that makes truffles i.e. oak trees, hazelnut trees, and willows galore. My guide Monchiero Giovanni was waiting for us with Leila, a cross breed white dog. Don’t get me wrong, there is no racism here; the hunting dog’s coat cannot be dark else they’ll get lost in the dark, which is primarily when all the truffle hunts take place (wee hours of the morning…remember?). The Giovanni family has been in this business since 1880 and Monchiero is the official truffle finding dog trainer in the area. Before the hunt began Monchiero shared that truffles are 90% water and are simply mushrooms that come from scattered squirrel droppings. And, all land that is uncultivated and the woods is fair game…prerequisites being a license and a dog and you can hunt on any property! By the way I also learnt that the Truffle also has the reputation of having empowered Napoleon to conceive his only legitimate son, and it isn’t a wonder why so many revere this insignificant, ugly, underground mushroom!

THE HUNT

We walked in the woods for about two and a half hours, up and down the hills. Leila would sniff around and when she found something, she got very excited, wriggling, and wagging her tail and all of a sudden start digging passionately like a maniac. Monchiero rushed over each time so that she didn’t get the truffle in her mouth. He even handed me a pick so I could unearth the truffle. The truffle in my hand was knobbly, its flesh compact and the brownness of the coloring was veined with white. It was quite mature and exuded an intense aroma and I could smell garlic, hay, wet earth, mushroom and spices all together …absolutely pleasurable and divine. All in all Leila found truffles eleven times, all white. With mucky shoes and a hungry Stomach I moved to a nearby restaurant for a hearty lunch of fresh fried eggs with a topping of shaved truffles and “tajarin” (egg yolk rich hand made noodles) accompanied with fresh white Truffles which made it so very exquisite. Happily I hummed... “It’s been a hard day’s night and I have been working like a dog”…Truly this experience was the highlight of my trip!

Published in Sunday DNA

A TO Z OF GOOD AND BAD EATING HABITS

• By Rupali Dean

An Apple a day, keeps the doctor away, is an age old saying,

We’ll talk here of eating habits some are bad and some are paying.

Breakfast, is the most important meal in the day,

Have it like a King, to keep stress at Bay.

Carbohydrates are in 3 main forms; sugars, starch and fiber; considered as brain fuel,

If formed at least 50% of everyone’s energy intake; the body is worth any jewel!

Depressed? Don’t Worry, Be Happy, for there is always a solution,

Eat a lot of whole grains, fresh fruits, vegetables, lean meat and cut down on Alcohol, tea, coffee and colas is the Magic potion.

Energy comes from food, which is burned and measured by calories,

So eat high-energy, low fat foods, exercise regularly and chill out to recharge your batteries.

Fats is a great topic for debate,

Fats make food tasty, but don’t fall into that bait.

Grapes are available as Green, red and black, are a rich source of potassium,

On the unwashed skin can be plenty of pesticides, so do remember to wash and eat them.

Hygiene is an important part of maintaining good health,

Check expiry dates, store properly, and cook in a clean work area, for health is wealth.

I scream, you scream, we all scream for Ice cream, an Occasional scoop will do no harm,

Remember to combine it with loads of fresh fruit and see the Charm.

Joint problems can be bad and could be due to low antioxidants in the diet,

Eat a lot of oily fish, as it is known to give mild relief, avoid obesity, and check that extra bite.

Kidney beans or rajmah are yummy with rice,

Undercooked can result in food poisoning, which isn’t really nice.

Lemons are rich in vitamin C, a squeeze on grilled fish, a tablespoon on the dressing,

But don’t overdo it as high acidity can harm tooth enamel, consume in a limit as its God’s blessing.

Migraine can be the common type or with nausea and vomiting,

Chocolate, cheese, citrus fruits and caffeine from the diet, one should be omitting.

Nuts are an excellent source of Vitamin E and are also known to prevent heart disease,

High in calories, peanut allergies are most common, so Darlings!! Do take ease.

Obesity is a result of lack of exercise and overeating,

Eat sensibly, exercise be it in the form of walking or swimming.

Pork is on of the leanest of all meats, cooking it properly should never be overlooked,

Trim all visible fat before cooking; cook thoroughly as there is risk of Trichinosis if undercooked.

Quinces are apple or pear shaped and are normally cooked before eating,

Thick preserve from France or Spain is great for treating.

Rice is a staple in most of the nations, available as Basmati, Arborio, Pudding, Glutinous, Jasmine and wild,

Also known to relieve cases of diarrhea and constipation mild.

Salt is essential to maintain the fluid balance of the body, and we add it for taste in our food,

High intake can cause high blood pressure, which can lead to a stroke or something that is not good.

Tea is the most reviving factor in one’s life, a mild stimulant, there’s nothing like a cup of tea,

Excess of anything is bad, tea can decrease the absorption of iron from food when consumed at mealtimes, believe me!!

Ulcer of the mouth is known to improve by gargling of an infusion of fenugreek leaves,

This sounds relieving as a sufferer normally peeves.

Vegetables if fresh are great for everyone for they provide all the essential vitamins, minerals and fibre,

They have no drawbacks; you can search the net at any cyber.

Water, can you imagine a life without it?

No, no never not even a bit.

X’mas cakes are really fun, even though they are high in calories and saturated fats,

Ingredients include eggs, sugar, butter or cream; surely they are also high in carbohydrates.

Yogurt can be made of whole or skimmed milk, tastes wonderful flavored or plain,

Calcium, phosphorus, boosts immune system, prevents bad breath, VOW there’s lot of gain.

Zizyphus or commonly known as Ber is known to purify blood and aid in digestion,

The infusion of its leaves is supposed to be used as an eye lotion.

HUNGRY TIDE:WATERWAYS OF BANGKOK

I have always been a huge fan of Thailand , especially Bangkok and the recent political crisis deeply saddened me. Food aside, the country’s beaches , climate and first-world infrastructure are enviable. And its famously welcoming , Buddhist culture, is the icing on the cake. So when I heard Bangkok is back to normal, ticket prices had crashed, free tourist visas were being doled out and five star hotels offered fabulous discounts, a family holiday was speedily fixed! We booked ourselves into Banyan Tree’s Grand club suite which came with many freebies including a limo pick up. In fact this is a reason I love Thailand: as an Indian I feel rich in this country, as its such a value for money destination.
After check in, our first stop was the MBK shopping mall which was buzzing with tourists and sales! Sated with shopping , we had a quick shower back at our hotel and headed straight for dinner to a brand new essentially Thai restaurant Bolan, that had been highly recommended by foodie friends.
Interestingly ‘Bolan’ is derived from the name of the owners, the chef couple, Bo and Dylan — but it also means ancient ! The couple trained under the acclaimed Australian chef, David Thompson at the famed Nahm restaurant in London’s Halkin Hotel, which is also the only Thai place to be awarded a Michelin star.
So obviously following their guru’s footsteps, they carried out extensive research into the cooking traditions of the Thai palaces, noting recipes, ingredients and presentation and re-created authentic , Thai cuisine that was in danger of being lost. The dishes indeed had a subtle flavour that is rarely found nowadays. My vote goes to the “salad of grilled banana blossom” , and “tom Kathi pla krob” or smoked crispy fish in coconut soup.
I was impressed by the rice choice as well. On offer was the 2008 harvested white jasmine rice from Yasothon province or a combination of white jasmine , pink and black rice from Buri Ram’s mid-year crop. Being a foodie family, we tried both and found they were equally fragrant, and delicious even on their own.
The next morning we set off from the Hotel at 7 Am for a trip to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in the Ratchaburi Province which is about 80 minutes from Bangkok. This place became world famous after it was used in a James Bond movie. It was here that Roger Moore zipped around in a boat evading crooks. Anyway, upon arrival at the pier we boarded the long tail boats and after a five minute ride through some not so scenic canals we arrived at the floating market.
We seemed to be one of the first people to arrive although there were already quite a few boat vendors paddling along the canal. Boats loaded with fresh flowers and wonderful handmade crafts and souvenirs , looked picture perfect. There were also boats loaded with colorful, fresh fruit and vegetables piloted by wizened old ladies in conical hats.

We were zapped by the sight of boats with charcoal braziers cooking succulent satays, woks frarant with delicious stir fries as well as deep fried plantains, breads, and shrimp. We tried some richly flavoured local delicacies too. After a short walk around the market we took a row boat to float about! At that early hour, the boat vendors selling fruit and delicious meals far outnumbered the tourist boats. After our enjoyable boat trip, I decided not to rush off but rather explore more of the area on foot. So, after a breakfast of rice kongee and fresh fruits, we wandered around taking pictures of the various canal side activities . We also went for a walk along Damnoen Saduak Canal. There were a number of paddle boats coming along this canal heading for the area where we had started our tour. After a good 3 hours at the floating market, we set off for to the Rose Garden. For lunch enroute we stopped at a roadside coconut stand. We tried something in which they take sap from the coconut flowers and boil it into a brown sugar and mix it in the coconut water...Delicious! We were also shepherded through a teak furniture centre which housed very talented carvers handcrafting teak into artworks and furniture. Lunch was an extensive buffet at the picturesque Rose Garden which was followed by a cultural show at the Thai Village . This performance included a Buddhist ordination procession, an elegant fingernail dance, Thai boxing, hill tribe dances, elephants at work and a traditional Thai wedding ceremony.
Back at the Hotel while our daughter Akanksha enjoyed herself in the pool, we had a much needed special massage — a one plus one free spa offer that also came with the Grand Club suite! What a treat for hubby and me. The Banyan Tree spa created the ideal setting for ‘balancing senses’ . The therapist gave us a firm yet gentle massage with long following strokes in special anti-stress oil. What a perfect ending to our day... This was our time – the rest of the world could wait!

TOP 5 JEWELLERY DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD

EATING ITALY

My culinary sojourn in Italy started at a one-stop-wonder called “Eataly” in Torino, which was a destination in itself .I thought it was a great way to know more about the local culture by simply browsing around a well-stocked store!I found some of the best food and wine in Italy there, running the gamut from over 42,000 wine labels, delicious charcuterie and cheeses to fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, hand-made pastas and biscotti which were beautifully displayed and systematically organized into sections.

I loved the “Sundries” area which was full of specialty food from the Piemonte region — and all of Italy and had on offer more than five aisles of local sweets including a semi soft candy called Gianduiotto , a cousin to the marvelous Nutella. In the mid 1800s when cocoa became scarce and expensive, locally grown hazel nuts were roasted and mashed into a cream as a substitute and mixed with chocolate!
I ambled through the best olive oils from each region in Italy, a fresh milk dispenser filled with raw milk from local farms and premium blends of coffee beans. I also learnt here that Torino has been the world’s top chocolate producer for years. I simply loved the cellar too where one could bring an empty bottle and fill it with wine from a huge glass jug. The store even had seven eateries, and a one Michelin Star restaurant — alas only by reservation — a café , a pastry shop, and a gelataria where I had the best gelato ever.
Had I more time on me, I would have stopped for a few cooking classes, more tastings and encounters with great chefs. A whole day was just not enough to enjoy this superior quality, artisanal, and value for money food of Italy under a one roof. If they had a place to sleep too, I would have never left! Why don’t we have such marvels in India yet?
A day later (after doing the tourist stuff in Torino) I moved on to Alba which is home to Italy’s slow food movement . No wonder I cannot spot a McDonald’s here! Alba is also the fount of noble wines made with the Nebbiolo grape (Barolo), and those exquisite white truffles.
After a short tour of the historic centre, I was in Alba’s local food market and it being a Saturday the place was in full swing. For me one of the most enjoyable aspects of travel is a visit to local markets. Sometimes discovering a pocket-sized market in a small neighborhood can lead to a treasured souvenir, or a rare local gourmet product. Either way it leaves me with vivid memories of the sights, smells, sounds and tastes of the local culture.
wandering through Alba’s wonderful and extensive outdoor market I found abundant vegetables, cheese, olive oils, cured meat, seafood and more. As I mentioned before the best white truffles come from Alba, so I found some — for a killer 5500 euro per kilo!. The shopkeeper kindly allowed me to sample a concoction of white truffle — infused with honey and mixed with Brie, he spread it on a piece of baguette. Decadent! A profusion of flowers were on hand as well, a colorful reminder of the importance of beauty in the lives of residents here.
Satisfied I drove on to Langhe hills, for panoramic views and more food and wine experiences. These hills are ancient, rich in visual and culinary pleasures. There’s loads to see: lovely little towns, beautiful scenery and vineyards, up and down the hills and valleys. The best way to explore is always on foot or a bike but failing that a car is essential. stopped for lunch at “La crota” , located in Roddi d’ Alba amid lush greenery and hills, as suggested by my local guide. This restaurant served regional cuisine and wine growers seemed very much at home there. There was also a wine cellar beneath the sitting area of the restaurant located in an atmospheric underground vaulted cave, beautifully decorated with paintings et all.

Young owner-chef Danilo and his mum rustled up a meal that introduced me to the true flavours of Piemonte cuisine, including such classics as “tajarin” which is handmade egg noodles with pomodoro (tomato sauce) and basil topped with a generous amount of shavings of parmigiana reggiano. The tiramisu was the pride and joy of Danilo’s mama, but another good bet was the lush strawberries dunked in sweet wine.
Needless to add, I washed down this traditional meal with copious quantities of red Barberesco wine. I also bought a delicious Barolo for just 20 Euros to carry back home ...Mama Mia, what more could I ask for in Italy...a surreal experience indeed! There can be no doubt; Piemonte is a region where you can taste the best flavours.
That, quintessentially, is the charm of Europe: there are so many places replete with homegrown attractions both culinary and visual that a traveller never tires of it. And everything seems to be geared for the enthusiastic visitor. There’s a lesson in this for India too!
Published in  ET Travel Delhi
 

MAD ABOUT MANCHESTER

My arrival in Manchester promised so much. The city was beautiful, the hotel in the heart of Manchester was lively with a nice indoor bar and a view overlooking a tiny market square, and the weather was gorgeous. Checked in on a Saturday evening, the city seemed to have a vibrant nightlife. The next morning I walked around the centre of the city and headed to Old Trafford, the home of Manchester United and the Imperial War Museum. The guided tour took me through the ground, the changing rooms and to the trophy room. It’s here I found out how important this great club is to UK, and indeed, world football. The stadium was impressively modern, which they keep expanding to a capacity, which is just shy of 76,000 now for a match. To go behind the scenes at Old Trafford, as this tour does, is a treat and is like being part of the club. By the way, I also got to sit in Beckham’s corner of the change room, where he used to sit.

The guides have a good sense of humour, though if you don’t like football, some of the jokes and history might go over your head.

This is a region that greatly rewards the visitor who grabs a map, not that you can ever really get lost in the ordered grid of roads here. So as hunger pangs struck, I caught a ride from Piccadilly to Bury. From Bury I stepped onboard the East Lancashire Railway for a journey back in time until the town of Ramsbottom (where my lunch reservation was).

This line, operated usually by volunteers, runs through the Irwell Valley along the edge of the West Pennine Moors to the town of Rawtenstall, and is so very Harry Potterish, more so with the Thomas and Friends engines and open cars for the special kiddies’ trains.

It was soon time to get off my steam engine journey and a short walk later I reached Ramsons Restaurant Lancashire, a small, intimate and very personable restaurant serving a modern British menu. I’d say it was a fantastic experience, decor was interesting and service very attentive without being intrusive, including the legendary owner Chris Johnston himself, who was very helpful. The wine list is exceptional and Chris’ knowledge is phenomenal.

Chris selects all the wine himself and is probably the only importer in the UK of his wines. The cooking is probably even better with a real flair for quality and precision. My scallops were excellent and the venison was succulent.

After wandering around in the local market, my last stop at Ramsbottom was at the chocolate café owned by baker and entrepreneur Paul Morris, and his wife Emma. On offer was a wide range of local and luxury European produce with a warm Lancashire welcome.

I ordered myself a real hot chocolate which was decadent to the core and a happy me caught the steam engine train back to town.

Published in The Asian Age on 23-05-2010

AT ANIAMMA’S FARM

Rupali Dean was treated to a traditional Syrian Christian feast when she visited an organic farm and spice estate in the backwaters of Kerala


KERALA is famous for its spicy and tangy cuisine as much as its scenic beauty; it isn't called God's own country for nothing. On a recent trip to Alleppey with my husband and daughter, I realised just how true that adage is...



We “discovered” Puthankayal Island quite by chance. Our boatman told us that it’s the last island to be reclaimed from the backwaters for agriculture and is therefore some two meters below sea level! The retaining dyke around the perimeter of the island keeps the lake water from entering the farm, apparently.



“One can take a tour and have a meal for Rs 1200 per person there,” he told us. The foodies that we all are, we simply had to go for it! What could endear us to this land more than a lip-smacking meal at Phillipkutty’s farm?



We were welcomed warmly by Anu and her mother-in-law Aniamma, with some chilled gingery lemonade in hand. Anu then took us around her family-run organic farm that produces oodles of coconuts, figs, tapioca, bananas, pineapple, guavas, cacao, vegetables and spices like nutmeg, pepper and cinnamon.



Previously Anu also had vanilla on her farm, but unfortunately fungal disease claimed all the creepers. A vanilla crop, I learnt, fetches money for its fruits (beans) as well as its stem and is in popular global demand. Seeing my enthusiasm for vanilla, however, Anu helped me get some from her uncle's farm…absolutely fresh and wonderfully aromatic.



After that wonderful tour, it was time for our lavish lunch which represented the best of traditional Syrian Christian cuisine. What makes this cuisine different from other Kerala styles is its non-vegetarian character. It can also lay claim to hoppers (idiappams), duck roast and the famed Kerala red fish curry. And, of course, that indispensible mate of the crispy-soft appams — stew.



It was a treat to share that sumptuous meal with the family in their dining room. We began our culinary sojourn with vazhapoo cutlets. These breaded patties were served along with a refreshing onion and tomato salad. Crisp on the outside, the filling of banana flower, potato and spices was moist and delicious.



Next came the famed karimeen or Pearl Spot fish. The taste of karimeen fried in flavourful coconut oil is quintessentially Kerala! With innumerable lakes, lagoons, canals and a network of rivers, Kerala's backwaters offer a treasure trove of fresh water fishe, and the Black Pearl Spot is prized for it’s irresistible taste.



But the highlight of my lunch were the Idiappams or string hoppers — amazingly light and fluffy — and Meen Moilee or fish cooked in mild spices and coconut milk. It’s an incredible dish of a million contradictions, subtly flavored to suit most palates.



Syrian Christian food is a mix of Portuguese influence, British flavour and Kerala tradition, they day. Thus, the food tends to be mild in spice terms and not too fiery for the taste buds.



Another dish I couldn’t get enough of was the Pineapple pachadi, whose balance of savory, sweet and tart flavours makes it a delicious accompaniment .On a more traditional vein on offer was a wonderful mix of other items like dal, "tindly fry, pappadams and lime pickle, perfect as accoutrements for red matta rice.



This type of rice is quite similar to brown rice because each grain retains its healthy outer bran layer. It is this rust colored bran layer which gives it its name. “Like all brown rice, red matta



has a lengthy cooking time and requires a ratio of 2:1 liquid to rice,” explained Aniamma. The robust, earthy flavor of the red rice also made it an enticing companion to the scampi masala.



Though I was full, as always I found space for dessert. I’d say the Ila ada was the perfect ending to our meal. This interesting dessert is made by spreading rice flour batter thinly on banana leaves. Then these crepes are either steamed or cooked on the griddle, and stuffed with a decadent mixture of jaggery and grated coconut. We had the griddle cooked version, which had a whiff of smoke from the banana leaves…Simply divine.


Publication: Economic Times Delhi;  Section: ET Travel;

ON THE WEST COAST

ON THE WEST COAST




• By Rupali Dean



Although it is a city, Perth retains some of its small town feel. There are relatively few high rise buildings and the city is spread over a large area. The harbour, teeming with sailboats, is particularly beautiful. My first stop was at the mint, which has an amazing exhibit of coins, gold bars and nuggets. There are some displays about mining, including a reconstruction of a miner’s camp, and I could also see the current minting operations through some windows. The tour concentrated on the mining camp exhibit and explained some of the nuggets they have. Highlight however was the gold pour, which is done hourly and you can see it more than once if you like. They melt down a bar and pour it into the mold. It's impressive to see the molten metal glowing because it’s so hot.

I also calculated my worth in gold, but will not tell you how much or you’ll know my weight, (as the heavier you are, the more your worth). After lunch at a nearby café, we wandered down to the Swan River which runs along the South of Perth and provides a picturesque stroll along its banks taking in the clear blue skies, sunshine. On the edge of the Swan River and dominating Perth’s waterfront are the Swan Bells which include the twelve royal bells of St Martin-in-the-Fields originating in London's Trafalgar Square, donated to Perth in 1988 to mark Australia's Bi-centenary. The Bell's are constructed within a stunning modern piece of architecture claiming to be the world’s biggest musical instrument.

Next morning, reached the neighboring and very scenic Fremantle on a cruise. Here we visited the Maritime museum, which is rather new and impressive, built over-top an old submarine base that was one of the busiest, after Pearl Harbor, during World War II. The centerpiece of which is Australia II, the boat that beat the yanks in the America's Cup in 1984. Next was a lazy lunch of “Fish and chips” at Cicerello’s by the harbour. I was about to feed some visiting Sea-gulls when the waitress pointed me to a sign which read, “Do not feed the gulls or they will S.O.Y” (shit on you)…saved on time, wasn’t I? On offer were also boutique styled beers, the ones that pop with flavour whether it is chocolaty, coffee flavored dark beers or zesty refreshing wheat beers. The crown jewel probably was the Little Creature Brewery right smack bang on the harbour where we went to later in the evening and I’d say even if beer is not your thing, then at least go for the super funky setting. The actual brewery doubles as a bohemian styled drinking warehouse and eatery. It’s very cool and is right on the coast. After a lazy lunch like a true Indian I spent a lot of time at the market which was quite interesting...fruit stalls, giftware and restaurants in a typical market setting except, and I was rather impressed that nobody was yelling, no aggressive selling tactics to get your attention...it was all rather calm and orderly. One of the best activities was our night time visit to the Fremantle Prison, which up until 1991 had been a working prison being established as a convict prison for all of the British rogues in 1859. We took a torchlight tour around the prison and disconcertingly it still had very much the feel of a prison rather than a museum which was not helped by all of the ghastly surprises along the way. They showed us various cells in the conditions they would have been in throughout the years. It was surprising to hear that they only had a bucket in the cell for a toilet right up to the late 80’s. The facility was also quite cruel by modern standards, but they only shut the prison down in 1991, which amazed me, because the cells were 2m x 2m.

We were also shown the gallows where about 40 something and at least one woman had been hanged. We came back to the prison the following morning for a tunnel tour as there is a network of underground tunnels used for supplying fresh water to the prison and surrounding area. Donning all of our protective clothing, we plunged down into the darkness, the labyrinth of tunnels was unending some of which we crawled through while others we navigated in little canoes. Next on my agenda was a visit to the beautiful Kings Park as well as a ride on the newly finished Perth Wheel. Sadly it was my penultimate day in Western Australia and after an amazing holiday down under, I had to embark on an exhausting eleven hour flight back home to be welcomed by tons of toil, work and yes the beginning of a tyrannical Indian summer.

Published in Asian Age