A DAY IN LISBON

 

As I arrived in Lisbon on the shores of the Tagus River, I was mesmerized by the city rising gracefully and serenely against rugged surroundings, shaped by the presence of seven hills. As I walked on the pavements, with stone mosaics in patterns of black and white I was instantly in love with the city.

 HISTORY GALORE

The two beautiful structures of The Discoveries Monument and Belem Tower are located right next to the Tagus River and at Discoveries Monument not only was I treated to an amazing 360 degree view of the city and the surrounding area, I also learnt the history of the Portugal Capital all in a single stop. At the tip of the monument there is a statue of Henry the Navigator looking out on the Tagus River. Flanked on either side of him are the statues of Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco da Gama. Later I took an elevator up to the top of the Monument with a few stairs to get to the roof. The great mosaic map in front of the Monument is huge! Belem Tower used as a fortress in olden times was no less spectacular at a perfect location to fend off any enemy. As for me I was awe-struck by the Renaissance style architecture. I then walked across to the monastery on foot. The building itself is stunning and uses the Gothic style in a unique way. Inside, I saw the tomb of the explorer who first discovered India, Vasco de Gama!

CASA PASTIES DE BELEM

Foodie that I am, I had to make a stop at the No 1 rated egg tart place in town, in spite of many bakeries mind you in Portugal who have developed their own, local interpretation of this kind of tart. History has it that a little before the 18th century, Catholic Monks at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos of Belem, created this creamy dessert. As I stood in the serpentine queue outside I was happy to discover that the service was swift, and I moved along the line very quickly. Greedily we ordered 4 tarts each and made ourselves comfortable on the table. They were decadent to the core with a warm (just out of the oven), light crispy pastry shell enclosing vanilla scented mouthful of custard which was luscious and one can choose to sprinkle it with cinnamon and powdered sugar. I have a huge appetite, but couldn’t finish more than three and trust me they are hands down the best custard tarts one can ever get. Definitely worth the wait…!

FEIRA DE LADRA

By now I was quite exhausted with walking and my calves ached. To my joy I found these quaint yellow trams which take you along most routes, it wasn’t just historical but exciting as well! So I took No 28 and as I headed towards the Campo de Santa Clara, in the funky Lisbon suburb of Moorish –influenced Alfama district, I could see white spires of Igreja de Sao Vincente de Foran monastery and the white dome of the National Pantheon, the Church of Santa Engracia. Nestled happily between these two iconic Lisbon monuments, I found the Largest and the oldest flea market (in existence since the 13th century), Feira da Ladra which literally translates into ‘the thieves market’ and is a great place to see the quirks of the city unleashed. Tourists and locals alike flock here every Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Tiles, ceramic works of art, candle sticks, carvings from former Portuguese colonies in Africa, white lace from Tunisia, African masks, Handmade toys from Porto, clothes, shoes etc…you name it and they are all here at a bargain price. What caught my fancy were the painted roosters, symbol of good luck to the Portuguese and also make for excellent souvenirs. Needless to add, I bought a big back one home which now adorns my living room. By the way, before you ask…let me confirm…thieves out here are not welcome!

 TIME FOR MUSIC AND DANCE

It was impossible not to want to listen to Fado, the local songs of the Portuguese. There were special restaurants termed Fado houses all around that played this, include a Folk dance performance with dinner in just 50 Euros at Alfama and are known to be the most original. After our meal was served (read large portions of delicious seafood that characterizes Lisboan cuisine), the lights were dimmed, there was silence and four men softly began playing their Fado guitars which were beautiful, round-bodied string instruments. A man from the audience stood up and began singing a slow, emotional tune. Other singers in the audience took their turns, performing about three songs each. Derived from the Portuguese word for ‘fate’, this urban folk music is both hauntingly beautiful and authentically rooted in the real world. I found it quite like an Opera. I may not put on Fado music when I go back home or in my car, but sitting there in that location, with those fantastic fadistas was a great experience at the Parreirinha de Alfama. I absolutely enjoyed my extra-large glass of Port and the rhythm of the night ….what a great way to end my trip at this enchanted land only regret is that I could not take picture owing to the low light!

 

FAST FACTS

Best Way to Reach- Emirates has a direct flight to Lisbon via Dubai. It is the cheapest and the quickest way to reach from India. A good idea is also to stop at Dubai enroute to make the most of your trip. Fares may vary; check on www.emirates.com while making a booking.

Visa & Currency- Indians require a Schengen Visa to enter Portugal and the currency used is the Euro. 1 Euro is equal to approximately 65 INR

 Publised in TLF Magazine

SAUCE IT UP!

A well made sauce enhances the flavour of any dish which is congenial to its ingredients and is either hot or cold in a runny form, can be used in the cooking or served along! That said we talk here about a few sauces that are a must have for any stylish kitchen

FRESH TOMATO

Before getting into a debate whether the Tomato is a fruit or vegetable, let me tell you that using fresh tomatoes always makes the best sauce. Look out for tomatoes which look fleshier (they will have less seeds), chop them finely, season with salt and freshly ground pepper or fresh green chilies and add to it the usual suspects i.e. olive oil and garlic, absolutely classic. But with a drizzle or loads of butter, it’s another thing entirely….and if you throw in some fresh basil …Voila it will enhance the flavor of the tomatoes! If you have more time on you the best is to roast tomatoes and garlic in the oven and trust me the result is incredible. Add to your pasta, dunk your bread or pour it over your head (just kidding)….Whatever seems right!!

FRUIT COULIS

Hang on…coulis is not just strained fruit purée with sugar; it can be made savory too with tomatoes or bell peppers. The method of mixing, sifting, straining and freezing can be applied to most fruits. Wash the chosen fruit and remove the stalks. Put the chopped fruit into a pan and add about half the amount again in sugar. Warm gently and stir constantly, trying not to break the fruit. When the sugar has dissolved into the fruit juice, take the coulis off the heat and let it cool, strain and put it into the fridge…simple isn’t it? The easiest way is to blend the fruit and icing sugar in a food processor, strain for seeds and chill. I personally like to make ice-cubes of coulis, by pouring it into moulds and leave them overnight in the freezer and next day I put the cubes in a bag, back into the freezer and use it whenever I want.

CHOCOLATE

What I like about chocolate sauce is that you can add it to coffee, drizzle it on ice cream, top up pancakes, add it to smoothies, milk shakes, puddings, mix it with yogurt, with cakes etc. And to be honest it is rich and satiny, oh so chocolaty and gorgeous, and it takes less than five minutes to make. In a small pot over medium heat, stirring, bring the about 1/4th cup of milk and cream each, a tablespoon each of unsalted butter and sugar to a boil. Turn off the heat, add in approximately 3/4th cup of chocolate, leave it for a minute and whisk until smooth… serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

SOUR CREAM YOGURT

Sour cream based dips are usually quite a favorite, however owing to the calorie content, most people end up feeling guilty and  No fret, don’t give up the pleasure instead whisk some lime juice with plain yogurt (which has been hung overnight). Remember to whisk it well till it reaches a sour cream consistency, add in some chopped parsley for flavour...And Hey presto you have a healthy sauce ready….serve it with some vegetable crudités, Nachos, Chips or even kebabs! I like to add in a wee bit of beetroot juice to the sauce while whisking for that delightful pink colour.

CHEESE

I love my cheese and eat it too; to be honest you can turn your average dish into something spectacular by adding cheese sauce on it. First make a basic white sauce by melting butter in a saucepan over low heat; stirring in flour and cooking for a minute or two, gradually stirring in milk and continue cooking over low heat, stirring constantly, until sauce begins to thicken, Finally Season with salt and pepper. This wonder sauce when added to grated cheese can be used for many recipes. The trick is to slowly add warm milk, ladle by ladle, to your Butter and flour mix to reach the correct consistency, throw in a Bay Leaf for some drama. Once the sauce is smooth, and all the milk has been stirred in, add the cheese and season with salt and freshly ground pepper as desired. And the best part is that any kind of cheese can be made into a cheese sauce…my favourite is the blue!

 

Published in DNA

BEATLE BOROUGH

Humming away “It’s been a hard day’s night” whilst having a glass of “chateau Beaumont” along with my “Oven roasted Lamb rack” on my Emirates flight to Manchester, I thoroughly enjoyed my upgrade and was rejuvenated by the end of my journey. Indeed a perfect start to the Beatles town! It was the most scenic thirty minute drive from there to Liverpool. Next morning, I started my day with a visit to the Albert Dock, which is home to the “Tate Gallery”, which was quite unique and entry free, I took advantage and whisked through most exhibits but stopped to admire ones that made me slow down, the classics such as Warhol and Picasso.   The “Maritime museum” was pretty amazing too though some of it saddened me as parts of it had a focus on how many Liverpool lives were affected by the sea and by war. The Docks also housed some of the best shops as well as restaurants and bars and I had a great time. I missed trying the Duck marine tour which seemed fun. It travels around the city then goes into the dock as a boat. The dock area looks even more beautiful at night, the old brick buildings all lit up by the Mersey River.  Later I also took a guided tour of the Liverpool Football Club of its famous soccer stadium and a visit to the impressive trophy room.

 

Later that day, I encountered quite a few people wearing Liverpool football gear and established that there was a match on that evening at the Everton football club. It was quite infectious and I really wanted to go to the match. The main shopping area of the city was closed to traffic and the pedestrians streets allowed for a pleasant atmosphere when there with tons of people eager for the match.  

 

I'm not a big football fan but I do quite like Liverpool Football Club, thanks to my crazy cousin’s update on it all the time, and though this one not at LFC, I went as my cousin kept saying, “If you are ticking off the boxes of the things you have to do before you die, then watching a football match on the ground is right up there”, and I second that now. There is an overriding tranquility that transforms football-watchers from stress-merchants into serene smiling beings in a stadium. There were Everton shirts and hats and scarves everywhere and a feeling of excitement in the air and I too was jumping on every goal Everton made (my cousin asked me to cheer for it) and finally we won.

Next on the list was the nightlife hopping, and I must add here that the culture capital of Europe is party central in the evenings with many different areas around the city for one to enjoy oneself in. So first went to “Alma de Cuba”, a restored 18th century Polish church, on Seal Street, which has been converted into a lavish bar and restaurant, replete with the original altar and pews and flickering candles add to the beauty of the ambience. The place oozes upbeat Cuban, Latin American and Hispanic vibes from every pore of its stonework to its exposed wooden beam rafters and I thought it was an absolutely great place to begin my night. Though I admit at first I felt a wee bit odd at eating by the church pew, but was bowled over by the food and service which were impeccable. I have never eaten such amazing fish fingers with tartar sauce in my life….trust me!

 

we then hopped over to “Peacock” and being a Friday got to try some free BBQ as well. And finally moved on to “The Cavern Club” where the Fab Four have played atleast 292 times. It was in the basement of an old wine cellar along Matthew Street in the market district of Liverpool and looked like a cave inside, and people still perform there. For those who don’t know the Cavern was actually a bomb shelter at one point. I could not believe how far into the ground this famous club was but there are quite a few flights down. It was pretty much because of the Cavern Club that the Beatles became famous in Liverpool (well that and the fact that the local newspaper wrote a lot of stuff about them). Live music in the cellar was full of noise, made the air pulse and throb that carried a palpable excitement that got louder with each of the flight of stairs that descend into this venue. The place is rife with memorabilia, including John Lennon's guitars, signed posters, and an original Beatles drum set. We had a few drinks and listened to the house band performing Beatles music and very convincingly at that and we immersed ourselves in the music of decades past and as we jived, I relived the memories of my college days and my youngest cousin was amazed at the brilliance of the era, just after the birth of rock and roll! Iam positive someday this Beatles Tribute band’s claim to fame will also be the Cavern Club owing to the fact that The Fab Four has long been inducted into the history books, the band’s music survives, not only in software format but played live out here just like John, Paul, George and Ringo did back in their days. Interestingly “The Cavern Pub” right across from the Cavern features a musical museum of famous guitars and instruments throughout the venue. Truly if walls could talk, they would be screaming “oh yeah, what fun”, Them Beatles changed rock and roll and then the world and we went home humming “Strawberry fields forever”!

 

Published in Et travel

EAT LIKE A LOCAL IN BRITISH COLUMBIA

At the forefront of Canada’s culinary tourism movement, British Columbia provides food and wine lovers with highest quality products to experience the very best of local cuisine.

 

What can I say? If you love good food and wine, a trip to BC is a must. I felt like a local myself being greeted by the friendly restaurant staff and the opportunity to meet the chef or owner at a number of the dining establishments added tremendously to the experience. To top it all, the ice wine at the end of the meal is totally acceptable indulgence!

 

GRANVILLE ISLAND

I was exultant at my arrival in Vancouver for the first time and was recommended a visit to Granville Island. So I hopped onto a small electric water taxi and puttered along False Creek. Edible Canada was one of those places that I had to simply try, so stopped for my first meal there and to my joy I discovered it wasn’t just a store or a restaurant, but a culinary journey and experience that brought more things to see and do along the way! I began with my lunch at the bistro; the menu was inviting and full of fresh flavours and the true commitment to sustainable ingredients and local choices seemed evident. After making myself comfortable at the nice wrap around patio I ordered my lunch. Crisp cut fries, topped with gravy, cheese and poached eggs, it looked gorgeous. I lost no time in making contact with the dish; the fries did not become a soggy mess, the toppings spread evenly on the fries, it was the most delicious ‘poutine’ ever, Simple and beautiful it married amazingly well with my ‘white wine sangria’.  Stomach happy I took a stroll through the retail store…and got lost amongst many wonderful spices, sauces and other terrific goodies to explore and yes the store offered only local, fresh and exciting items. Next was a tour of the Granville Island market, which was a great combination of serious Gourmet and the souvenir shops. I was left salivating; as a tourist my options were limited to carry things home!

 

FAST FACT- Edible British Columbia (now Canada) was created by Eric Pateman in the spring of 2005. Eric is a Vancouver native with a lifelong passion for food and wine. He has worked in the hospitality industry for over 15 years both as a chef and hotel consultant and has rated restaurants for the Mobil Travel Guide.

 

THE DINING ROOM AT BUTCHART GARDENS-VICTORIA

If you want to experience tranquillity, relaxation and consume glutinous delights whilst taking in some of the most beautiful scenery in BC this is the place to stay! Needless to add this is one of the most visited flower gardens in North America. I immediately grabbed the seats by the window which overlooked the Italian Garden so I could admire the stunning flowers plus it makes for a good vantage point to watch everyone coming and going through the garden. Though on offer is a full menu for lunch and dinner, I opted for the famed High Tea and I was not disappointed at all. The tea menu ran the gamut from their own special Gardens Blend of Black tea blend of Darjeeling, Black Hunan and Gunpowder, to teas with hints of fruit and flowers and the common Earl Grey and English breakfast. I went in for the Gardens Blend, highly recommended by my server, which came along with seasonal fruit, warm savouries, sandwiches, scones and pastries served on china cake stands. The smoked salmon sandwich with a maple Dijon cream cheese was a sheer delight. The scones with the true Devon shire style clotted cream and strawberry jam were the star of the show. That said I would be doing injustice If I do not talk about the quiche which was a perfect amalgam of Gruyere and buttery crust….and yes the homemade sausage roll was simply divine. The surprise was a small box of loose tea that I got to bring back home with me as a souvenir. My cousin who has tried the High tea umpteen times ordered the seared wild BC salmon fillet ‘panzanella salad’ which was no less spectacular. The Dining room is raucous most of the time as it is well patronized.

 

FAST FACT- Mr and Mrs Butchart named their home ‘Benvenuto’, the Italian for ‘welcome’, and they basked in the joy their gardens gave to others. Until numbers made it impossible, tea was served to all who arrived. In 1915 alone, it is reported that tea was served to 18,000 people.

 

SECRET OASIS AT THE FAIRMONT WATERFRONT URBAN GARDEN
I was overwhelmed with joy when I discovered the third floor terrace of The Fairmont Waterfront in Vancouver which houses a secret garden oasis. The heady scent of lavender and rosemary lead me to these gates where I strolled on the paths, picked fresh herbs, sampled a wild berry, observed the visiting birds and also saw a real honey bee hive sanctuary!!! Here I found Executive Chef Dana Hauser Chef’s grazing the garden space for ingredients for that day’s dishes…now this is what I call Farm to Table! Dana ignites her devotion to fresh, sustainable, seasonal ingredients harvesting and using everything from the garden in her kitchens. Nurturing the very elements which constitute her culinary creations, and a philosophy around fresh food innovation, Hauser constructs signature dishes that combine the rooftop ingredients into authentic West Coast flavour. I tried that evening a ‘Honey Basil Collins’ along with ‘freshly picked rooftop tomato, lettuce, chives, and herbs salad’ and I couldn’t help asking the chef to share a couple of recipes….am yet to come across such a talented chef!

FAST FACT- In Vancouver, more than 60 varieties of herbs, edible blooms, fruits and vegetables are grown throughout the , With Vancouver's mild climate, the bounty is grown year round and is a significant contributor to reducing energy, emissions and showing the Hotel’s commitment to decreasing negative impacts on climate change.  The herb beds were created in 1991 on the sunny south-facing terrace balcony, and have been reinvigorated in 2012 under the guidance of Executive Chef Dana Hauser.

 

FARM TO TABLE RECIPES BY EXECUTIVE CHEF DANA HAUSER AT FAIRMONT WATERFRONT HOTEL, VANCOUVER

 

ROOFTOP MINT & SWEET PEA BISQUE

Yield-Makes four
INGREDIENTS
Lb: lbs Peas; 1 onion: chopped; 1 tsp.: sugar; 1 Tbsp.: butter; 1 leek: chopped; 1 Tbsp.: mint chiffonade; 1 tsp.: lemon juice; 1Litre: Chicken or Vegetable Stock;
Salt and pepper: to taste.
METHOD

1.    Sweat Onions and Leek in butter over Med Heat.

2.    Do not brown.

3.    Add Peas, sugar & lemon juice with cooked onions and leeks to Blender. Puree until smooth.

4.     Add Chicken Stock in increments to achieve desired consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with fresh mint.

TO SERVE

This soup can be served hot or cold. Reheating of soup will cause it to lose its vibrant colour

WATERFRONT SIGNATURE HONEY GRANOLA BARS

Yield- Makes 24 bars
INGREDIENTS
2 cups: Rolled Oats; 3/4 cup: Wheat Germ; 3/4 cup: Sunflower Seeds; 3/4 cup: Pumpkin Seeds; 156 Gms: Brown Sugar; 165 Gms: Honey; 55 Gms: Butter; 7 Ml: Vanilla Extract; 200 Gms: Dried Fruit.
METHOD
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes

1.     Toss oats, wheat germ and seeds and toast until golden.

 

     2.     Heat the honey, sugar and butter to a boil.

3.     Stir in the vanilla.

4.     Pour over toasted mixture and add the dried fruit.

5.     Mix thoroughly and press firmly onto tray.

Published in TLF

EXPLORING THE CANADIAN ROCKIES

They say the Ice fields Parkway is one of the most beautiful roads and it is true! The area is really nice with forest, mountains, glaciers, bighorn sheep, and bears!

TOURISTY FUN

The ‘Rockies’ compose mainly of two National Parks in Alberta, Banff and Jasper which are close to British Columbia border and are one of the most famous tourist destinations in western Canada. With its ranges of stunning mountain, stunning campsites, and townships similar to small European villages, I just could not leave it unexplored. 

STUNNING VIEWS

Within the park, at Lake Louise area, the most awe-inspiring of all is the lake itself. From a common vantage point across the wide jade colour water rise two bluish mountains, I composed very clearly the whole view of the landscape in my frame, as the cloud infused backdrop of the sky completed my desire of capturing the exhilarating beauty. Nearby from where I stood while taking pictures of the lake, stands proudly the majestic Chateau Lake Louise. Originally owned and built by Canadian Pacific Railway back in the late 19th century for the purpose of enticing travellers to explore western Canada by train. The dynamics of travelling changed at the advent of highway infrastructure and airplane, so it was eventually sold. The Chateau offers an ambience of serenity and enigma. Its massive hallway, the high ceiling, the spiral steps, even its wide planks of wood used generously throughout allowed me to feel its heritage beginning.

ATHABASCA GLACIER

We left Banff and drove along the Ice fields Parkway; one can even drive down from Jasper to the ice-fields. The views of the mountains, waterfalls, lakes, glaciers and wildlife along the way were simply stupendous. The main attraction here is the Athabasca Glacier and the ride in the Brewster Ice Explorer down to the glacier is a sure highlight as the bus negotiates the steep slope while the commentary from the driver certainly adds to the suspense! After a few minutes, the bus reached a clearing and we were allowed to hop off.

The icy wind was the first thing I felt before I lost my footing on the ice.  I walked around and marvelled at the colours and patterns of the ice. Apparently the water from the glacier is meant to make you look 10 years younger, so of course I filled up a bottle.

CALGARY

Nestled at the base of the Canadian Rockies, Calgary kept me really busy during the day. I even spotted some real cow boys and did lots of shopping like a true Indian. It gets even better at night with live music venues to quiet bars; you can find just as many places to relax. That said, for such a pluralistic Region as Alberta, the Calgary Stampede provides a powerful expression of local pride, and I would recommend visiting Calgary at this time for a fantastic experience!

FAST FACTS

BEST WAY TO REACH- Fly from Delhi to Calgary via London with British Airways. A great idea is to book in the World Traveler plus…it’s premium economy but maximum comfort in a little extra price.You can carry 2 bags of 23 Kg each even in economy class.

VISA & CURRENCY- Indians require a Canadian visa to visit Toronto. The currency used is the Canadian dollar which is approx. INR 55.

published in The Statesman

CZECHING OUT EXOTIC CUISINE IN PRAGUE

Prague is not just about its superlative architecture, cultural diversity, and past history; it’s also about experiencing some of the best Czech cuisine in the country.

 

Let me make this clear at the onset that typically Czech food is Exotic but not diet food. So, if you happen to be in the Prague and want to enjoy traditional Czech cuisine then consider leaving your diet at home. Most dishes have an extremely strong emphasis on meat, pork being number one, with beef and chicken being seconds. However goose, duck, Trout, rabbit and wild game are also part of the menu. It is basically hearty fare or can be classified as comfort food too. Sample this, svickova -beef fillet served in a creamy juniper berry sauce, a hot goulash with bread or vepro knedlo zelo- pork, cabbage and dumplings washed down with a beer. This cuisine has been largely overlooked by the rest of the world and from my personal experience I feel some of these Exotic Czech dishes could just rule the world.

 

SOUPS

 “There isn’t any dinner without a soup, it is our starter”. That’s what my guide Michael told me. Soups have a truly huge tradition in the Czech Republic, and there are loads of varieties. Bramboračka, is a kind of soup which is available in almost every restaurant in Prague. It’s a thick kind of soup with potatoes in it, with a light smell of garlic accompanied by vegetables like carrot, parsley and celery. Just when it is almost ready, mushrooms are thrown in it and it tastes delightful. Czechs make soups practically out of everything be it Garlic soup, milk, tomato or lentil and my list could go on.
MOST EXOTIC- Goulash
However the most exotic is the “Goulash” a rich beef stew, though not quite as spicy as its Hungarian counterpart and is eaten along with Knedliky the ubiquitous Czech bread dumplings, not noodles, potatoes, or sour cream. The authentic Goulash is made with beef but it is also made with chicken or venison as well as vegetarian varieties of the dish.

 

MAINCOURSE

Traditionally, the main meal of the day in Prague is lunch and it is based around beef or pork which is served with a choice of starchy side dishes such as dumplings, French fries, or other types of potatoes. Dumplings being the most common side dish which are normally made from wheat or potato flour, boiled as a roll and then sliced and served hot. There’s a sweet version of too called Ovocne knedliky meaning fruits dumpling. They can be filled with strawberries, blueberries, apricots or plums served with chocolate or sweet cottage. And this one is a main dish!! The excellent and refreshing Pilsner-Urquell can challenge any beer and is usually be served with Sausage and Horse-Radish, or the famous Prague Ham.

MOST EXOTIC-Pork Knuckle
The reputation of Czech gastronomy also comes from many other pork specialities, like the Jitrnice aka Black Pudding or the Moravske Klobasy alias Moravian Sausage. As for me I had seen a bunch of customers order a mini rotisserie which was a pork knee which looked amazing, a foodie that I am so I followed suit - it is one of the main local dishes around town and this exotic pork knee, marinated in dark beer is decadent to the core…a carnivore’s delight!

 

STREET FOOD/SNACK

I simply loved the Havelske Trziste, an open air market which was not very far from the old town square. Here I discovered several vendors selling everything from fruit to pastries to hot food. A must try is the ‘Smazak’, a hot sandwich of breaded, fried cheese (usually Edam) served with Tartar sauce. For those in between meals, there is nothing like Utopence aka pickled sausages (read marinated) that are fatty and a bit sour, typically piled high on a plate and served cold with raw onion (not to forget the beer of course). It’s the perfect snack.

MOST EXOTIC- Trdelniks
Dough is wrapped around rotating wood or metal bars and roasted until its golden brown. Then it is rolled in sugar, cinnamon, and nuts.  Not too high in sugar, the flavours of the nuts and high-quality cinnamon simply stood out.

DESSERT

Most Czech desserts revolve around three things i.e. sugar, fruit and starch. The most popular being palacinka , a thin pancake – which comes in several variations involving fruits, jams, cinnamon with sugar, chocolate sauce and others. What caught my fancy were the strawberries and plums covered by butter, curd and sugar. I liked the version with cocoa instead of curd, even more. And yes, then there’s always good old zmrzlina (ice-cream!)
MOST EXOTIC- Medovník (meh-dov-neek)
A light, fluffy, layered Honey and cinnamon cake, there are variations in this one too.

 

I cannot talk of Czech cuisine and not talk about the beer, which is the national beverage. My favourite dish with the Czech beer was hands down pickled ermine, which is a specific type of cheese, soft on the inside and covered in a thin white film….a foodie’s delight!

 

So like the Czechs I would say “Dobrou chut!” which means “Hope it tastes good!”

 

By Rupali Dean published in TLF

IN SEARCH OF A DIAMOND

IN SEARCH OF A DIAMOND

• By Rupali Dean

Diamond and chocolates are a woman’s best friends, with this thought I went to Brugge and Antwerp…but I discovered much more…both cities are rich with its historic past , world- famous panoramic views, centuries old squares invigorated by contemporary constructions  and a lot of Gastronomy…keep your camera handy..

Your first impression of Brugge (the way they spell it here) will be confirmed by climbing the 366 step clock tower, Belford, for a view over the town. Further confirmation that Brugge truly is a special place will be a canal tour with a very informative guide for just 7 Euros…A must do! However before you get to Brugge a beautiful, romantic little medieval town, which could possibly be described as a mix between Amsterdam and Venice, with many waterways and stone bridges Swans swim through all the canals and horses with carriages trot down the streets- it’s so cute! - You have to get to the Brussels Airport which is very organized and the station is just two levels below. From there on it is an hour north of Brussels by train.

Our Hotel was just a 2 minute walk from the market square-where all the action is.  For some culture one can visit the “Onze Likeve Vrouekerk”, which houses the remarkable art treasure, “Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child”, a small marble statue from 1504 and one of the few works of Michelangelo outside Italy. Back in the medieval times Brugge was a very wealthy place as boats used to come up the canals from the sea to trade.  Much of Bruges retained intact because there was no huge industrial revolution here. Hence the buildings and homes were not knocked down to make way for factories. Nonetheless, Bruges is everything you want in a small medieval town. Lots of fascinating buildings and homes along many streets that cross over a plethora of ivy covered stone bridges. The inner city is basically a little island with a moat surrounding the city. Chocolate and lace shops line the cobblestone streets, while tourists hop around the town by bike, foot, horse drawn buggy's or boat along the canals.. It was definitely very touristy, yet didn't seem too over flowing to bother too much. The town itself really is the attraction. I finally found some Belgium waffles after this and they were everything that I expected and maybe a little more. I tried a chocolate Vanilla one – decadent to the core. It may have tasted better just because of the fact that I was in Belgium when I ate it, but I am going to say it is possibly the best waffle I have ever had. While we were here I also visited the “fret museum” where I learnt that the Belgium actually introduced “French fries” and not the French. Every restaurant sells fries as a separate menu item.  And they prefer to serve them with mayonnaise, not ketchup. Also true beer capital, when it comes to brewing.  Belgium still has 600 actives breweries that operate like micro breweries with many following strict quality standards and consistently winning taste test award throughout the world.  I had beers here that were nothing like anything I have tried before. 

Next morning we hopped back on the train and headed to the city of Antwerp (literal translation is hand throw), after all I had not even started looking for my diamond yet. For those who do not know Antwerp is the Diamond capital of the world. A fairly large city, around 500,000 inhabitants and is the second largest city in the country.We had to walk about a mile to our Hotel from the train station and seriously we passed about 20 Diamond Jewellery shops, all right next to each other. By the way, the station is beautiful! Do grab your free copy of a witty “youth” map of the city before you start exploring its squares, cheap eats, deep and super long pedestrian tunnels, parks, second hand shopping and more. A lovely city with a mixture of new and old, modern and historic buildings and to me seemed much more like a real city than Brugge, which is like the original medieval city for tourism, and has no major industry. Situated on a massive river Antwerp’s main attraction is walking along the river, which everyone does. Touristy places are the Rockox house and the town market square with the town hall and a fountain depicting the hero of the city. Legend has it that the giant “Druoon Antigoon” who controlled the River Scheldt would levy heavy tolls on all the boats that passed. If anyone refused to pay, he would cut off one of their hands and toss it into the river. One day, a Roman centurion named Silvius Brabo killed the giant, chopped off one of his hands and threw it in the river. Thus the city of Antwerpen got its name! Werpen means “to throw”. Interestingly all throughout this city there are hands. Hand statues, hand chocolates, hand gummies, and hand pictures. A great idea is to also visit the Grote Market, a tribute to the Golden Age, a typical Frankish shape; it is dominated by the city hall, the guild halls and also by the Brabo fountain. And of course the Town Hall, surrounded by nicely decorated buildings. From here one can also see the top of the cathedral. I later went in and I must say it is the most magnificent Cathedral I have ever seen. Inside are four glorious paintings by Reubens. Surprisingly, there were no officials to protect the precious artwork. But given its enormous size - there is no chance of anyone taking one home. Antwerp is the cultural capital of Belgium with the best shopping ever and houses all the big names of all the big designers.

For those in between hunger pangs do stop by for Belgian fries... which won’t be difficult, along the edge of the square, you’ll find some figurines of fries; go for the one which reads “best friets”.  How can one miss out on the best fries, the most authentic Belgian fries!  Yes, they are delicious. Another must visit is the Plantin-Moretus Museum, the current printing museum and was the first printing warehouse in Belgium. This place was not destroyed in any civil or world wars so it is practically in the same condition as when it was used hundreds of years ago. All of the original presses still exist with the original stamps. One of the highlights of the trip can be a visit to “Kulminator”, a Belgian beer bar that specializes in vintage beers. Iam sure you have heard of vintage wine, but this one offers vintage beer. The bar is replete with a full cooling room to keep the vintage beer at just the right temp.

Home to the European diamond trade, but of course there were plenty of the sparkling gems around. But naturally one has to visit the Diamond Museum, since Antwerp produces 80% of cut or carved diamonds of the world. It is a simple modern museum, not many antique jewels, more a walk through of how a Diamond is processed. Although comparatively cheaper than elsewhere; I unfortunately still came home without any. Of course, no trip to Belgium goes by without plenty of beer and chocolates, and I found one that combines the two, chocolate beer - amazing. Belgium makes about 300 types of beer and tried as I did, I couldn’t really taste it all. But my verdict of Belgium- beautiful country, nice people– it is all about the food and beer and Iam not complaining

MUST VISIT/ MUST DO

RUBEN’S HOUSE IN ANTWERP

Rubens was famed for painting full figured ladies who enjoyed life. One of the main reasons for thousands of tourists visiting Antwerp each year is this house. No other city is connected that closely to Rubens as Antwerp. One can find his paintings in the churches; his statue is on the Groenplats, his grave in St. Jacobskerk…In Rubens House, where he lived and produced over 2,500 paintings is a must visit for any tourist.

Timings- 10 am to 5pm. open on all days except Mondays. Entry Fee- Euro 1 (below 25) and Euro 6 (above 25 years of age).

LOVE BRUGGE CITY CARD

The Brugge city card is a smart card with a computer chip. This digital card entitles the user free admission to or discounts on a range of attractions covered by the tourist. One saves about 200 Euros or more by buying this card. The more places you visit the more money you save and is automatically activated on first use. It can be bought for a validity of 48 hours or 72 hours. One can buy it online on www.bruggecitycard.be , at the information offices or at the railway station and at the Concertgebouw.

BELGIAN FRIES MUSEUM IN BRUGES

This museum sketches the history of the potato, fries and its various accompaniments and sauces. Housed in Saaihalle, it is one of Brugge’s most beautiful buildings.

Timings – 10 am to 5 pm on all days. Free if you are carrying the city card else Euro 6 for ages 12 upwards and between Euro 1 to Euro 5 for other age groups.

SHOPPING IN MIER AT ANTWERP

Most renowned pedestrian shopping street in Antwerp and its renovated historically valuable architecture is home to the luxurious international clothing and leather brands. One should also take a peep at the prestigious shopping mall in Stadsfeestzaal. The beautiful Rubens house and loads of brasseries are located in Wapper, off Mier.

THE FLEMISH PRIMITIVES: WORLD FAMOUS ART FROM BRUGGES

The Bruges museum houses the world famous and unique pictures by the Flemish Primitives. You can also witness here contemporary art, poignant and romantic folklore and majestic town palaces.

BELGIAN WAFFLES

Let me try and describe the awesomeness that is a Belgium waffle.  First they make the waffle, then they dip it in a sugary goodness, topped with a variation of melted chocolate, fruit, ice cream, whip cream, and sprinkles…. a must try!

HARIDWAR-THE GATEWAY TO GOD

Visit the northern town of Haridwar, which is located at the point where the Ganges spills out of the Himalayas. A Gateway to the four pilgrimage of Uttarakhand, Haridwar is also known as Gangadwar, Tapovan and Mayapuri.

  

Probably right behind Varanasi in “holiness” as many pilgrims come to Haridwar to witness “the footstep of Vishnu”, Chain links line the ghats because the currents at this part of the river are so strong, it is easy to be swept away. The town itself is a holy town and is crammed with pilgrims who come to bathe in the Ganges and float lit candles down the river as a means of offering. Interestingly, Haridwar is hot in the summer, but the Ganges water is always icy cold. The river is fed by melting glaciers and snow peaks. That doesn't stop multitudes from turning up on any given day to bathe in the waters. Truly, Haridwar is a city that signifies an arresting blend of Indian culture and spiritual beliefs. The Kumbha Mela here is a big draw and the next Kumbha-mela to be held here will be from February to May in 2010.

HAVELI HARI GANGA

We had booked ourselves into Haveli Hari Ganga (also known as Pilibhit house), a mere 500 meters walk through the bazaar at the sacred ‘Har ki Pauri’. Hindus believe Haridwar was blessed by each member of Hinduism's great trinity, Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. They also believe that Shiva left his footprint in a stone that is now part of the Har-ki-Pauri Ghat (a section of a river that's used for bathing).We were given prayer beads to wear and lassi to drink on arrival and we had a room with a terrace which the Ganges lapped onto! The Haveli has been designated as a heritage property by the Department of Tourism, Government of India. The best part is the clean private bathing ghats, which is a first for a hotel in Haridwar.

TEMPLE VISIT

The next morning we awoke before sunrise to go down to the Ganges River to watch the sunrise over the mountains. It was absolutely beautiful. We then hiked up a small mountain to Mansa Devi. It was about a 30 minute stair-master workout, but the views were worth it! Along the way, we were almost attacked by the numerous monkeys along the trail. We took cable cars up to the temples of Mansa Devi and Chandi Devi. These were high on a hill overlooking the town and the Ganges. Streams of devotees made their way through the temples, making offerings of flower petals and nuts.Other temples in close vicinity on the hill itself are the temples of Gauri Shankar, Neeleshwar Mahadev and Anjani Devi.

THE GANGA AARTI

Ganga Aarti is a riverside religious ceremony that takes place at sunset. The ethereal beauty of Ganga Aarti is an unparalleled vision. It is accompanied with chanting monks, symbols, flaming torches, drums, and trumpets. It was a grand production, and at the end Visitors and locals alike set large leaf boats filled with flowers and candles afloat on the river amidst the tangy aroma of incense.

CUISINE

Strictly vegetarian cuisine is the order of the day. The street food is commendable especially the ‘Halwais’.The Karigar fries the Jalebis in his huge wok and it’s a wonderful sight to see his old hands moving with the speed of an expert. The samosas here are equally commendable, the mutter Ka samosas are delicious and very different from anywhere else. Do not leave without a meal at ‘Chottiwala’

TRAVEL PLANNER

• Best Way to Reach- Take a Shatabadi to Haridwar. (214 Kms from Delhi). It is also well connected by trains from all major cities. From the station you would be picked up in a rickshaw for your hotel.
• Best Place to Stay- Haveli Hari Ganga (you can book online  ...the packages are extremely reasonable) or spiritual ashrams
• Must Visit in Haridwar- Har Ki Pauri, Chandi Devi, Mansa Devi, Kavand Mela, Daksha Mahadev Temple, Sapt Rishi, Maya Devi.
• Moving Around- Walking, cycle Rickshaws or Blue coloured 3 wheelers called’Vikram’. They (Vikrams) even take you to Rishikesh which is around 30 Kms away.

By Rupali Dean..published in The Asian Age & Deccan Chronicle